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Finished yet another hypancistrus tank, needed a spot for some L-174, snapped a few before cleaning it up and filling it up...

29G, All-Glass Aquarium with Aqua-Clear 300 (70 is the new number, I believe). That's a Maxi-Jet 1200 powerhead, rated to deliver 295GPH. Ocean Visions back drop, great product, covers back and one side, private, yet allows observation.



Power head intake is foam covered. Filter intake is setup for a hydro-sponge. Note flexible hose from power head output, makes it much easier to maintain. Gives you some slack to remove unit without tearing up the PVC which ends up covered in gravel. Will add a suction cup on the PVC just beyond the junction for the tube. All PVC is press fit, snug against the sides of the tank, no glue involved, again for maintenance.

Shot of the power filter with a custom acrylic panel to shorten the top to 24". A standard 24" glass lid drops in nicely. The slab hanging gown into the tank primarily stiffens the acrylic, but also directs outflow downward. Note the double 45 degree fittings. These allow the PVC to fit into the corner, while providing freedom of movement to mate to the power filter.



A 13 hole spray bar evens out the current. Aquarium Systems suction cups, same used on the stealth heaters, very good, firm grip.



...and a few of the results.



Not the best photography, but you are looking at one each of five spawns, occurring in a similar setup, each spawn roughly six weeks apart. (Plus a few adults waiting for space...)

Very interesting design. I had not thought of setting up a submerged spray bar like that.
-Shane

Pleco_farmer,

Nice setup. Are all your breeding tanks for Hypancistrus setup like this, or is this an experiment.

I guess that you would you say that these are my research tanks. The serious prototypes are eight foot long plywood tanks divided into five, 20gal "cells". I experiment in these setups, either 29g or 20g-long, until the fish mature and I figure out (with the help of the great minds here!) how to encourage reproduction. Most of my stuff so far is Rio Xingu/Rio Tapajos, so the current is appropriate. Also, I stick to smaller plecos, the biggest are L-034, although I have worked with L-264.

This setup has worked for L-046, L-034 (although I have seen only four infertile spawns so far), L-134, L-260 and L-066. Plus, the occasional, irritatingly unrepeatable L-177 spawn.

Ultimately, I would like to scale up to large acrylic setups, divided as my prototypes, to reach saleable quantities. I'll never be able to compete with pond breeders in the South since I have to remain indoors. However, I think there may be room for a supplier who can reliably deliver 10-20 tank-raised species at the higher end. Hopefully, a little business that I can have fun with after I retire from the software arena, hell its pretty fun right now...

Very nice design! In a setup like that how have you positioned the caves, do you have them looking straight at the spray bar? Do you have any pics with one setup? Thanks.

That is an awesome looking setup. I am just in the process of setting up a twenty long for the same purpose. Do you use any substrate? Any pics a totally set up tank would be great.

20L works as well for these small species, but 29 does give you a bit more water to work with. Also, foot print is the same which seems to most directly affect the comfort factor. On a metal stand I can put the 29 up top and the 20L below, just shore up the bottom shelf a bit. I usually knock together a plywood box.

Biggest drawback is the pipework which gives fry plenty of places to hide. In a 29 you can really bury most of it, but in a 20L this starts to cut into the water volume. But then, a spawn motivates you to tear it down a bit for cleaning.

Caves are most definitely pointed away from the current. However, I observed a L-177 spawn where the male actually excavated a cave under a cave on the current side. I have two pairs working with a variety of geometries to figure this one out.

If my clients, and more significantly, my significant other, leave me alone today, I should get this one up and running, will definitely shoot some pics.

A bit busy today, so cut me some slack on the photos...

Filled, running and up to 86F, temporary sponge filter in back to jump start the bacteria.



...observe current pulling bubbles from filter output to the center of the tank, just about right. Not exactly a show tank, but easy to maintain.



20L, similar setups below...



Working group of L-034, this one uses Whitepine's setup with intakes attached to an undergravel plate. Its been running for four months, and I'm just about ready to tear it down for cleaning. Water quality is great, I'm just curious as to what I will find under the plate...



Wiring is out to get things hooked up, it actually slides into the plywood boxes under the 20L's.

Four L-134, settling in, quality stock from Paul Turley. Let the boys pick out their caves...



2M/2F, not bad for odds of 6:16...



Got to go and shuffle a few more tanks, (6) L-174, (6) L-180 and (6) L-255 arriving tomorrow...

I would be really interested in seeing what is under the gravel when you break down that tank. Please take some pictures and let us know how it turns out.

Cheers, Whitepine

Sand is the best thing to use,due to their digging behaviour,and they have sand in the wild.I use 0,8mm-1,2mm for my hypancistrus zebras

http://www.nettakvariet.no/galleri/show ... 500&page=1

what kind of stones are on your photo sharko? dont they react wiht water and raising hardness?

Nice setup pleco_farmer!!
I am really interested in that "custom designed acrylic panel" ?!
How do u produce that?
BTW your caves are made of tile's?

best regards and once more congrats on the setup...

I wish i had equipment like that in my LFS

worton[pl] wrote:what kind of stones are on your photo sharko? dont they react wiht water and raising hardness?

It's black tiles and they do not raise ph og hardness.
The caves are special made for Hypancistrus zebra

pleco_farmer wrote:
Working group of L-034, this one uses Whitepine's setup with intakes attached to an undergravel plate. Its been running for four months, and I'm just about ready to tear it down for cleaning. Water quality is great, I'm just curious as to what I will find under the plate...

Did you rip down that tank? If you did, I hope you took picturs for us to see.

Cheers, Whitepine

Hi!
I´ve missed this thread earlier so please, could you update the liks to the pics as they obviously are moved from the server.

No, the pictures have not been moved, the server that hosts them is down for maintenance, they will be available shortly.

Oh, yes. I just noticed that

Using pleco_farmer`s setup could you replace the Maxi-Jet 1200 (295GPH) for a Power Sweep 228 (270GPH) Powerhead?

I would have though that the make and model of powerhead has little importance, except that you need to make sure it fits the pipework, which can be "fixed" by changing the pipework fittings if necessary [or using a padding/seal of some sort].

Since the bits involved in the pipework are pretty low cost, there's not a big problem with buying the piece that you intend to connect the powerhead to, and checking that it fits before you buy any of the other bits. Bear in mind, when you try this, that there may be other pieces that turn out to work better - have a good look around when you visit the hardware/DIY shop where you get the bits of pipe...

--
Mats

I am sorry! I should have mentioned that the Powersweep 228 is an automatic self-rotating powerhead and wavemaker. That is why I asked about using it.

Aha. Doesn't seem like a great feature in a river tank, but I'm sure there's nothing that will go "wrong" because of it. It will just look a bit funny...

--
Mats

I would have thought that the almost double sized pipe would be sufficient to carry around 4 times more water. Flow rate is proportional to the area of the cross section of the pipe. If the diameter is d, then the area is:
d * d * pi / 4 (or r * r * pi, where r = is the radius -- which is half the diameter).

If we then have a pipe with 2d diameter, we get:

2d * 2d * pi / 4 - put another way: 2 * 2 * d * d * pi / 4. So if we remove the common parts between the single and double diameter, the result becomes 2 * 2, or 4, so a double diameter pipe will allow 4 times the flow...

--
Mats

In picture 7, where does the PVC pipe that is running vertical on the right back run to? (Note the double 45 degree fittings. These allow the PVC to fit into the corner, while providing freedom of movement to mate to the power filter.) The power filter does not look like it is hooked up to that piece of PVC and if it is how is the Filter intake is setup for a hydro-sponge?

All the pics are red X

MatsP wrote:I would have thought that the almost double sized pipe would be sufficient to carry around 4 times more water. Flow rate is proportional to the area of the cross section of the pipe. If the diameter is d, then the area is:
d * d * pi / 4 (or r * r * pi, where r = is the radius -- which is half the diameter).

If we then have a pipe with 2d diameter, we get:

2d * 2d * pi / 4 - put another way: 2 * 2 * d * d * pi / 4. So if we remove the common parts between the single and double diameter, the result becomes 2 * 2, or 4, so a double diameter pipe will allow 4 times the flow...

--
Mats

It's even more, because with diameter =2d, the average friction from the walls will bre a lot less than in diameter =1d.

This friction is quite significant. I have 2 pumps, 1 with 1 inch tubing, and another, similar, with 1.24 inch. I don't need any equipment to see the difference in output.