PlanetCatfish.com

yes i just read through the other topic.

Not so sound ignorant, but i'm not entireley sure on changing water. What i have learned wether it be correct or not, is that tap water must be detoxified
now i use this:
http://209.15.53.70/popup.asp?product_id=37

But from what i heard water must be left 24 hours for the process to work, then it can be used.

I have a rather ineffecent way of changing water in which i detoxify it in a14 gallon tank and then swap out water with gallon jugs, then swap it back in.

Anyone wanna fill me in on the proper way i should be doing it, with equiptment suggestions and what not.

hi Paladindjinn

someone somewhere will probably say "i'm Doing it wrong"and give scientific details as to why??
yet in my defence i have and do breed quite a lot of varied fish , from erethistes to aspidoras sp, and even non catfish.
i when nature doesnt fill up my rain water barrel, i will fill it up straight from the tap and will start to use it within 24 hrs.. i then use a 1 gallon jug which i syphon off the water from my tanks and then replace the water from this barrel,, if i happen to receive "free water dechlorinator then i will use this (i do not refuse any goods given freely); to the water i added to the barrel from the mains supply when filling up my barrel.. but;; if i don't have any .. i dont buy it..

I have a rather ineffecent way of changing water in which i detoxify it in a14 gallon tank and then swap out water with gallon jugs, then swap it back in

on a lighter note i came to the conclusion many years ago that doing things ineffecently is a matter of how much money you are willing to spend, if you happen to be a billionair and dont pay someone else to do your water changes is that counted as ineffecent

I'm just wondering a couple things,

Recomended water declorination storage, or if that can be done intank. If not, is the water storage could double as a carrying device to either pour into the tank, or set up next to the tank for easy transfer.

Recomended declorinator.

Also recomended siphoning, and removal container.

Here is my process that I have used for years and years. Water changes are every week.

1) Shut off all filters, lights, and heaters. This is VERY important. A week ago I missed a heater and it "exploded" in the tank just seconds after I removed my hand. I am actually surprised that we do not lose more aquarists to electrical mishaps (I have certainly had my share!).

2) I use a 4 foot 3/4 tube and remove a 5 gallon bucket worth of water. Use this water to squeeze out sponges in, rinse off filter cartridges, and or clean out any uplift tubes or other parts that need cleaned. Note: In a large tank housing "dirty fishes" e.g. Panaque it may be necessary to fill 2 or even 3 buckets to get everything rinsed off and cleaned up. Use an appropriate sized bucket for your strength/health. A full 5 gallon bucket weighs about 40 lbs. This is too much for my wife and I keep a 3 gallon bucket (24 lbs weight full) for her to use if I am out of town. In my early fish keeping days I had an awesome 10 gallon "Paul Bunyon" bucket that I used. I am now a little more careful with my back and do not carry 80 lb. buckets anymore.

3) If the tank is small, say 15 gallons or less, you are basically done at this point. If it is larger, I rubberband a piece of netting over the Python (I have had too many fishes swim into the Python), place it in the tank and let it start draining. I shoot to change 40-50 percent every week. The amount basically depends on the number of fishes and how much of a mess they make.

4) Once the tank is drained, just reverse the flow of the Python to start filling and add the correct amount of water conditioner. I like Stress Coat by brand name. For me the most important thing is that one teaspoon treats 10 gallons. If you buy a brand where one teaspoon treats 5 gallons you are paying double the price (think about it). You should also add any other tonics or fertilizers at this time.

5) While one tank is filling, just move on with the buckets and start the next tank. I know that some aquarists, like Barbie, run two Pythons at the same time. I have enough problems and spill disasters keeping track of one, so I have true respect for anyone that can run two.

Using this system, I change 40-50 percent of the water in circa 20 tanks every week. It takes me about two hours if I do not get sidetracked and start moving fish, aquascaping, etc.

I do think that it is good to age water. I usually keep a couple of tanks set up with plants and no fish. I let these grow algae and all kinds of bugs so that I have a ready source of good food on hand for either new fry or new acquisitions. The bottom line, however, is that ageing water only works well if you have a small tank or two or install a several hundred gallon holding tank in the basement and pipe the water to your fishroom.

For breeding or very sensitive fishes, I "bottle" RO water in plastic 5 gallon drinking water bottles and keep it on hand. I used lots of rain water in Venezuela and Colombia, but do not trust rainwater here in Makesicko City.
-Shane

Ok so i have a 46 gallon tank.

So you say it if safe to declorinate water intank with no ill effects to the fish.

Also the Python what is it exactly. Also where can i purchase one.

So you say all i need is 1 5 gallon bucket for cleaning of equiptment.

THe tank gets dirty quite fast, for it harbors a 12-14 inch sailfin, which never stops deficating.

you asked?

Also the Python what is it exactly. Also where can i purchase one.

the answer is contained within this previous post
http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9773

Ok as for declorination, recomended product, and can it be done intank, with no ill effects to the fish.

Depends on a couple things:
1. What type of fish you are keeping? Some species are more sensitive to changes than others.
2. What your Municiple Water supply is adding as a biocide. If it's simple chlorine, it should be no problem with most fish (including your sail-fin.) In my tanks for the most part, I have stopped using additives altogether unless I am doing a huge (70%+) water change.
If is Chloramine (chlorine bonded to ammonia), you'll need a separate vessel to pre-treat the water. This stuff is far to toxic to fish to treat after introduction to the aquarium.

Ask a good local fish store that is on the same supply system what they use. Ask them what they use throughout the year as some Muni-supplies add ammonia only in the spring or fall (during heavy periods of run-off).

Also, request a printout of all measurements and additive from your Muni office and clarification regarding seasonal differences.
By law (in MN and Ohio anyways) they have to provide FULL details on request. Not sure about MASS. though.

My way of changing water :

1. I fill a 160 l (40 gal) tank (water butt) with reversed osmosis water, and add about 20 l (5 gal) of tap water.

2. I heat this water up to 20 °C.

3. I switch of pumps and heating of the tank, and let flow the same amount of water out of my tank (directly in the drain)

4. I put a dedicated pump (500 gallon per hour) in the water butt and fill my tank with the water in the water butt

5. I switch pumps & heating on

While preparing the osmosis water and heating it takes about a day, the waterchange operation itself does only take about 15 minutes. I change water every 2 weeks, about 25 % of total volume)
I don't use any water treatment

H2Okonijn

My method of changing water:

I use one python to remove the water from the tanks. Roll it up and put it away. Lately I have been putting water with bleach in a bucket and siphoning that through and then another bucket of dechlorinator before I put it away.

Then I use a second python attached to a submersable pump that I drop into the water barrels to refill the tank. The water in the barrels is tap that has been dechlorinated with Prime, aerated for a 24 hour period and is heated by 300 watt heaters. The heaters in the tanks and barrels lay on the bottom so they are never out of the water when emptying the tank.

I use a separate garden hose to refill the barrels.

Every 3rd water change, I fill a small 2 gallon bucket from each tank and clean the sponges; rinsing it between each tank. The waste is good for house plants if you have them. Especially the pleco tanks.

I do have a semi automatic water change system installed on the rack that holds the 14 tanks. One line in and another for the waste water. The lines have hose connections at the end of the rack to hook up the submersable pump for refill and for the mag pump to empty into the utility sink. I just haven't finished the piping. Therefore I don't use it...yet.
The other 12 tanks won't be on the same type of system unless I get really, really motivated.

Weather permitting, I will reconnect my rainwater collection system. I have a 100gpd RO unit, but just can't bring myself to use it until I can truly figure out how to get the waste amount to equal the production amount.