Tank problems
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Tank problems
Ok i got a 46 gallon bowfront tank, filtered by a Emperor 400 dual bio wheel filter. It persistently stays cloudy, i need some help on that. Also it is populatd by 2 bala's(1 now, one died yesterday), 2 iridesents, a chocolate pleco and 2 pictus cats.
Ok so if you could i need any info on filtration/water changes or anything that could be keeping my tank super cloudy, or anything i could do 2 get rid of it.
Secondly, i'm not sure what was wrong with my bala but he kept his under fins tucked up to him not like the other one who had them full spread always, and one of his under fins was shreded to all hell. I was wondering if maybe he had a disease or something, that i should look out for, incase other fish got infected, also something ate him any idea who would be the culprit of that, and if they have any chance of contracting a disease form it.
Ok so if you could i need any info on filtration/water changes or anything that could be keeping my tank super cloudy, or anything i could do 2 get rid of it.
Secondly, i'm not sure what was wrong with my bala but he kept his under fins tucked up to him not like the other one who had them full spread always, and one of his under fins was shreded to all hell. I was wondering if maybe he had a disease or something, that i should look out for, incase other fish got infected, also something ate him any idea who would be the culprit of that, and if they have any chance of contracting a disease form it.
Last edited by Paladindjinn on 13 May 2004, 23:47, edited 1 time in total.
- Barbie
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We're going to need ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate readings, along with the length of time that the tank has been set up, and the regular water change amount you do, and how often you do them in order to be of much help. The more information we get, the more apt you are to get an answer that can actually do you some good.
Barbie
Barbie
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- Barbie
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- Barbie
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The tank is cloudy probably from ammonia/nitrite levels being high, due to the cycling process, and the direct sunlight is going to be guaranteed to cause an algae bloom at some point, which can also cloud the water. Definitely try shutting off the light for a few days, and see if that helps. How often do you do water changes, and how much do you do when you do them?
Barbie
Barbie
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Thank you for the help, the tank is sorta in direct sunlight because it is next to a window, but the way my house faces it only gets some reflected sunlight from about early mid day to late afternoon.
Also on ammonia, nitrite and nitrate testing, i am new to taking care of an aquarium and am not sure what to test with, could u link me to recomended testing/correcting products that i should be able to find at a LFS.
Also on ammonia, nitrite and nitrate testing, i am new to taking care of an aquarium and am not sure what to test with, could u link me to recomended testing/correcting products that i should be able to find at a LFS.
The sunlight will cause algae blooms no doubt - direct sunlight is probably the worst thing for the tank illogically enough - maybe consider some backing - it will keep out the sun and your tank will have a nice background - I use it on the right side wall of my big tank just exactly for that purpose and have never had a lick of a problem with algae once it was there. The Penguin biowheel will also cause problems, they have to be clean and they're fussy to maintain, consider an Aquaclear or Fluval internal. A good test kit can be had for probably 15-20 bux at LFS, make sure you get a comprehensive one with reagents for hardness, ammonia, nitrate, and pH. Ammonia and nitrate indicate too much waste in the tank that is basically rotting and turning to poison, levels of both should ideally be nil. If you have significant levels of either change 40-50% of the water and dump in some Cycle, but make sure you change the filter media too else your efforts could be wasted. Good luck!
The toil of all that be helps not the primal fault
it rains into the sea, and still the sea is salt
it rains into the sea, and still the sea is salt
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Ok, i also heard mention of nitrite, is it basicly the same as nitrate. I am having a hard time getting my ph down. The LFS only carry's these little bottles of ph down, and it takes like 2 bottles for a .4 change. I'va had aquaclear there ok, not to impressed with the bio filter in them. I heard good things about the emperor so i decided to try one, worst comes to worst i go back to aquaclear.
Yea as for waste thats a big issue my iridescents and my pleco just crap non stop. Daily i take my gravel vac and try and clean as much out as possible.
As for now i am staying with the emperor, would would u suggest would be the best second media filter. I have a bottle of mixed(carbon/ammonia) i have yet to put it in, havn't had the time. I have heard of people using secondary bio filters there. Any suggestions on what would be best.
Yea as for waste thats a big issue my iridescents and my pleco just crap non stop. Daily i take my gravel vac and try and clean as much out as possible.
As for now i am staying with the emperor, would would u suggest would be the best second media filter. I have a bottle of mixed(carbon/ammonia) i have yet to put it in, havn't had the time. I have heard of people using secondary bio filters there. Any suggestions on what would be best.
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You should NEVER be adjusting the pH of your water in your tank. It causes the pH to bounce around like mad and is VERY stressful for your fish. Just let them adjust to what comes out of your tap and they'll be happy. The penguin filter will work just fine, I'm not sure why they're getting a bad rap today, but I've used a good number of them with no real problems. I would recommend an additional filter to supplement though.
You should go to your lfs and buy test kits for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Fish put off ammonia, which is very toxic to them, that are then digested by bacteria colonies that gradually build up numbers as there becomes more ammonia present. They put off nitrite, which another set of bacteria colonies will then convert to nitrate, which is much less toxic to the fish themselves. This process takes 4-6 weeks on average. The bacteria colonize surface area, so every time you take that gravel out and scrub it, you are slowing the process down.
I personally have never seen much benefit from adding Cycle to a new tank. It might shorten the cycling process by a few days, but it doesn't keep the ammonia and nitrite levels from peaking and putting the fish in danger, due to their own waste. The only product I've ever used that actually made a difference was BioSpira. It has to be refrigerated, to keep the cultures healthy though, so it can be more of a pain to find.
If the tank was mine, I'd buy the test kits, and do a 30% water change every few days for the next 2 weeks, or anytime the ammonia or nitrite were at unsafe levels. Only feed the fish a tiny bit every 2 or 3 days so you aren't literally killing them with kindness from the toxins they have to live in from their own waste. Adding a background isn't a bad idea, but I honestly think it's the least of your worries at the moment.
Barbie
You should go to your lfs and buy test kits for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Fish put off ammonia, which is very toxic to them, that are then digested by bacteria colonies that gradually build up numbers as there becomes more ammonia present. They put off nitrite, which another set of bacteria colonies will then convert to nitrate, which is much less toxic to the fish themselves. This process takes 4-6 weeks on average. The bacteria colonize surface area, so every time you take that gravel out and scrub it, you are slowing the process down.
I personally have never seen much benefit from adding Cycle to a new tank. It might shorten the cycling process by a few days, but it doesn't keep the ammonia and nitrite levels from peaking and putting the fish in danger, due to their own waste. The only product I've ever used that actually made a difference was BioSpira. It has to be refrigerated, to keep the cultures healthy though, so it can be more of a pain to find.
If the tank was mine, I'd buy the test kits, and do a 30% water change every few days for the next 2 weeks, or anytime the ammonia or nitrite were at unsafe levels. Only feed the fish a tiny bit every 2 or 3 days so you aren't literally killing them with kindness from the toxins they have to live in from their own waste. Adding a background isn't a bad idea, but I honestly think it's the least of your worries at the moment.
Barbie
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Ok did an old ammonia test it came up 7, i'm in a panic i gotta rush to the lfs for somethin 2 calm it. While i'm there i'll pick up a newer ammonia nitrate test and see if it gives the same results. I'm just gonna feed them once every other day for the next couple weeks. Also i put in my diamond blend media, should i get straight ammonia chips and change it to that?
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- racoll
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to re-emphasise what barbie said, the most important thing to remember is that water changes will solve 90% of fishkeeping problems. i've been keeping fish for over 15 years and never once have i had to add chemicals from bottles into the tank! (except dechlorinator)
are you using dechlorinator for your water changes? if not the chlorine in the tap water could also be poisoning them.
fish are also able to fast for weeks without food in their natural environment, so don't worry about not feeding them for a few days.
good luck, hope they get better!
are you using dechlorinator for your water changes? if not the chlorine in the tap water could also be poisoning them.
fish are also able to fast for weeks without food in their natural environment, so don't worry about not feeding them for a few days.
good luck, hope they get better!
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