Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
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Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
Hi,
during the years - most pronounced rather recently - I gathered some experience in artifical hatching pleco eggs, both good and bad ones. The reasons are multiple, deliberate and accidental, ranging from males constantly kicking out eggs, males constantly eating eggs, to the occasional desire to better control numbers.
I have essentially settled on two different methods, a low maintenance and the traditional high maintenance method with very frequent water changes and changing the hatching container daily. Choice of method depends on the species, I experienced difficulties with certain species using the "traditional" approach (for example, I never managed to hatch a single egg of L59 with the traditional approach, while I achieve success rates of near 100% with the lazy way).
While I currently ponder the thought of writing an article on this topic (which would probably take some time), I figured I could share my most recent experience with artifical hatching of a Pseudacanthicus spawn.
This spawn was taken deliberately from the male the day after spawning, because I am currently working on answering a different question (but that is a topic for yet another article).
So this would be the spawn of Pseudacanthicus sp. (L 65), less than 8 hours after spawning, which happened during the night of August 22nd to August 23rd:
Never bothered to count them.
Since I am not overly successful in hatching Pseudacanthicus using the high maintenance way, I used the low maintenance way (which I have done several times before with Pseudacanthicus).
For this, the spawn is placed in fresh water (from the tap; if you like, you can also mix it with RO water, but that never made a difference for me), don´t use tank water! I never bothered to adapt the eggs to new water: I even dumped spawns from soft and acidic (conductivity below 100µS/cm, pH below 6) into my tap water (conductivity: 400µS/cm, pH around 7.5) and hatched them with near 100% success. Add a drop of your favorite anti-fungal agent to it, an air stone (if the spawn is large, it is best placed in a net) and then hang the whole thing into one of your tanks with the temperature you want for hatching (about 29°C in this case). Looks something like this (this is not this actual example, but it´s no different):
All you do then is remove dead (white) eggs once a day. You should be thorough with this, meaning to try and remove the complete egg, try not to spill too much yolk in the water. Unless you have an accident with a lot of yolk in the water, don´t change water or the hatching container.
In this case I only had to remove dead eggs after the first and second day (two and one, respectively).
A three day old spawn looks like this:
A total of five larvae hatched prematurely and none of them made it through their first night.
The actual hatch happened on Friday August 29th, so basically 6 days after spawning. This is the time where you want to change the water (100% of it), because otherwise the protein from the egg shells will quickly spoil the water (the airstone will produce a nice, foamy surface; a process we all know from salt water hobbyists who use foaming to remove protein from the water, but not used in fresh water).
I counted them using this picture and came up with a total of 328 larvae. I probably missed a few and I will have to remove some of them during the raising process: I could already identify a few with deformities such as tilted or twisted spines.
Adding the total of eight I had to remove during the hatching process, this spawn consisted of at least 336 eggs, from a female measuring less than 15cm TL (less than about 6 inch total length).
The "success rate" so far would be 97.6%, high enough for my aspirations.
Now I need to identify a tank to raise 300 Pseudacanthicus in..
Cheers,
Sandor
P.S.: One word of caution: this does sound pretty simple and streight forward, but bare in mind that this is basically the culmination of about 10 year´s worth of experience of artifical hatching of pleco spawns (not too successful in the beginning) and I only started trying to do this with Pseudacanthicus spawns about a year ago. So just like everything around keeping and breeding fish, this is not a fail-safe recipe and don´t expect it to work the first time around. I wouldn´t be surprised at all if others have difficulty hatching them this way but succeed using the high maintenance way (which does not work for me).
during the years - most pronounced rather recently - I gathered some experience in artifical hatching pleco eggs, both good and bad ones. The reasons are multiple, deliberate and accidental, ranging from males constantly kicking out eggs, males constantly eating eggs, to the occasional desire to better control numbers.
I have essentially settled on two different methods, a low maintenance and the traditional high maintenance method with very frequent water changes and changing the hatching container daily. Choice of method depends on the species, I experienced difficulties with certain species using the "traditional" approach (for example, I never managed to hatch a single egg of L59 with the traditional approach, while I achieve success rates of near 100% with the lazy way).
While I currently ponder the thought of writing an article on this topic (which would probably take some time), I figured I could share my most recent experience with artifical hatching of a Pseudacanthicus spawn.
This spawn was taken deliberately from the male the day after spawning, because I am currently working on answering a different question (but that is a topic for yet another article).
So this would be the spawn of Pseudacanthicus sp. (L 65), less than 8 hours after spawning, which happened during the night of August 22nd to August 23rd:
Never bothered to count them.
Since I am not overly successful in hatching Pseudacanthicus using the high maintenance way, I used the low maintenance way (which I have done several times before with Pseudacanthicus).
For this, the spawn is placed in fresh water (from the tap; if you like, you can also mix it with RO water, but that never made a difference for me), don´t use tank water! I never bothered to adapt the eggs to new water: I even dumped spawns from soft and acidic (conductivity below 100µS/cm, pH below 6) into my tap water (conductivity: 400µS/cm, pH around 7.5) and hatched them with near 100% success. Add a drop of your favorite anti-fungal agent to it, an air stone (if the spawn is large, it is best placed in a net) and then hang the whole thing into one of your tanks with the temperature you want for hatching (about 29°C in this case). Looks something like this (this is not this actual example, but it´s no different):
All you do then is remove dead (white) eggs once a day. You should be thorough with this, meaning to try and remove the complete egg, try not to spill too much yolk in the water. Unless you have an accident with a lot of yolk in the water, don´t change water or the hatching container.
In this case I only had to remove dead eggs after the first and second day (two and one, respectively).
A three day old spawn looks like this:
A total of five larvae hatched prematurely and none of them made it through their first night.
The actual hatch happened on Friday August 29th, so basically 6 days after spawning. This is the time where you want to change the water (100% of it), because otherwise the protein from the egg shells will quickly spoil the water (the airstone will produce a nice, foamy surface; a process we all know from salt water hobbyists who use foaming to remove protein from the water, but not used in fresh water).
I counted them using this picture and came up with a total of 328 larvae. I probably missed a few and I will have to remove some of them during the raising process: I could already identify a few with deformities such as tilted or twisted spines.
Adding the total of eight I had to remove during the hatching process, this spawn consisted of at least 336 eggs, from a female measuring less than 15cm TL (less than about 6 inch total length).
The "success rate" so far would be 97.6%, high enough for my aspirations.
Now I need to identify a tank to raise 300 Pseudacanthicus in..
Cheers,
Sandor
P.S.: One word of caution: this does sound pretty simple and streight forward, but bare in mind that this is basically the culmination of about 10 year´s worth of experience of artifical hatching of pleco spawns (not too successful in the beginning) and I only started trying to do this with Pseudacanthicus spawns about a year ago. So just like everything around keeping and breeding fish, this is not a fail-safe recipe and don´t expect it to work the first time around. I wouldn´t be surprised at all if others have difficulty hatching them this way but succeed using the high maintenance way (which does not work for me).
"What gets us into trouble is not what we don´t know.
It´s what we know for sure that just ain´t so."
--Mark Twain
It´s what we know for sure that just ain´t so."
--Mark Twain
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
Many thanks for sharing your experiences - they are an inspiration
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That'll be a big one then ;)Borbi wrote: Now I need to identify a tank to raise 300 Pseudacanthicus in..
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
Thank you for the informative post! Do you find different species eggs to be more and less durable? My Ancistrus claro had failed spawns one after another and the last spawn I saw hatchlings, but then an empty cave the next day, so I took his latest attempt. He has an inordinate number of infertile eggs after a day, but 3 did hatch. My L114 spawned once and kicked out the eggs and I gave them back. I wish now I had tried to artificially hatch them and I probably will if it happens again. I've been using the new Cobalt egg tumbler to good success, but maybe that needs to be in a tank full of brand new water next time. I'll add that to my list of things to change. My Ancistrus sp. "Rio Tocantins" I just simply put the eggs in a net hanging in the parent tank where the flow is brisk. It works better than any number of things I tried. There are 7 females in the tank and they literally spawn a couple times a day, kicking out the original spawn and spawning with the male, one by one. If I collect all of the eggs and put them back by the time the cycle is done, he almost can't get into the cave!
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
Hi Barbie,
yes, it´s a strictly species-dependent issue.
I have so far hatched Ancistrus, Hypancistrus, Peckoltia, Ancistomus, Panaqolus, Leporacanthicus and Pseudacanthicus using both "techniques" (also some Corydoras, but that´s a very different topic).
There is no correlation between perceived "difficulty" or delicateness of the species and the required hatching technique, both across genera and within a genus.
To single out one example: in my experience, Ancistrus sp. "L 184" and Ancistrus sp. "L 309" have comparable demands toward water parameters and the required care during the initial raising process. Still, I can hatch L309 only with the "lazy" method, but for L184 I need to resort to the high maintenance way (interestingly with L184 - at least for me - that way I can even hatch them in my tap water, while if I have the male do it, it strictly requires very soft and strongly acidic water and no water changes until the larvae hatched).
There are only a few species where it doesn´t matter what I do: Ancistrus sp. "Super-Red" being one example, but the most pronounced (and the one I have most experience with) is L260. My dominant L260-male has so far eaten every single spawn during the first day (and he has well over 5 years of experience at it). So I pull all spawns I notice from him and unless I place the eggs into already foul water, it does not matter what I do with them, I always have success rates close to 100%. But that is also the only Hypancistrus species where that holds so far, others demand very specific techniques.
So with the vast majority of species I have to experiment to find my ideal way to hatch them. A process that may well take a few years with infrequent spawners..
Cheers,
Sandor
yes, it´s a strictly species-dependent issue.
I have so far hatched Ancistrus, Hypancistrus, Peckoltia, Ancistomus, Panaqolus, Leporacanthicus and Pseudacanthicus using both "techniques" (also some Corydoras, but that´s a very different topic).
There is no correlation between perceived "difficulty" or delicateness of the species and the required hatching technique, both across genera and within a genus.
To single out one example: in my experience, Ancistrus sp. "L 184" and Ancistrus sp. "L 309" have comparable demands toward water parameters and the required care during the initial raising process. Still, I can hatch L309 only with the "lazy" method, but for L184 I need to resort to the high maintenance way (interestingly with L184 - at least for me - that way I can even hatch them in my tap water, while if I have the male do it, it strictly requires very soft and strongly acidic water and no water changes until the larvae hatched).
There are only a few species where it doesn´t matter what I do: Ancistrus sp. "Super-Red" being one example, but the most pronounced (and the one I have most experience with) is L260. My dominant L260-male has so far eaten every single spawn during the first day (and he has well over 5 years of experience at it). So I pull all spawns I notice from him and unless I place the eggs into already foul water, it does not matter what I do with them, I always have success rates close to 100%. But that is also the only Hypancistrus species where that holds so far, others demand very specific techniques.
So with the vast majority of species I have to experiment to find my ideal way to hatch them. A process that may well take a few years with infrequent spawners..
Cheers,
Sandor
"What gets us into trouble is not what we don´t know.
It´s what we know for sure that just ain´t so."
--Mark Twain
It´s what we know for sure that just ain´t so."
--Mark Twain
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
very interesting. Thank you for posting this
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
Hi Sandor,
Pleased to say your method works for me. Just had a big hatching of Pseudacanthicus L114, after the male kicked out his eggs last week. I split the eggs into two batches, one raised with tap water and one raised with tank water, both with aeration and a drop of methylene blue. The tap water eggs hatched with 100% success. Only 20% of the tank water raised eggs hatched. I only had to change the tap water batch once in 6 days, the tank water eggs needed changing every day after day 3 and 3 times per day on days 5 and 6, plus removal of dying eggs every hour. In future I will use the tap water method of raising Pseudacanthicus eggs. I've posted full details on Facebook on the Catfishes of the World forum.
Cheers,
Mark.
Pleased to say your method works for me. Just had a big hatching of Pseudacanthicus L114, after the male kicked out his eggs last week. I split the eggs into two batches, one raised with tap water and one raised with tank water, both with aeration and a drop of methylene blue. The tap water eggs hatched with 100% success. Only 20% of the tank water raised eggs hatched. I only had to change the tap water batch once in 6 days, the tank water eggs needed changing every day after day 3 and 3 times per day on days 5 and 6, plus removal of dying eggs every hour. In future I will use the tap water method of raising Pseudacanthicus eggs. I've posted full details on Facebook on the Catfishes of the World forum.
Cheers,
Mark.
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
I use the same "technique", but so far only the high maintenance way. And that came out of my own experimenting and I find it quite funny and nice to read you do the same. At first I was afraid to put eggs in total fresh (in my case) tap water but it worked out fine. Still a lot to learn because hatching rate is not close to 100% yet, about 75% so far.
My biggest question so far is; how do you remove the dead eggs? This is something I keep struggling with..
My biggest question so far is; how do you remove the dead eggs? This is something I keep struggling with..
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
Hi,
@Marc
Interesting to read that others have the same kind of experience with Pseudacanthicus as I did. And I haven´t tried it with L114 yet. Good luck with raising them!
@Jac
I use a 10mL syringe with a piece of pretty old 6mm airline attached. That airline is almost not flexible anymore, which makes it easier to "grab" the bad egg. The 6mm airline is perfectly sized for almost all eggs (only exception are the very small eggs of common Ancistrus and the like; for those I use a pipette). If the bad egg breaks when you suck it into the syringe make sure you suck in a decent, additional amount of water to flush the area and remove as much protein as possible.
At least for me most eggs don´t break, but I can then carefully pull the rest of the egg clutch off with my fingers. If the bad egg is connected to a lot of other eggs (preferrably good ones), I prefer to use tweezers to first sever most of the connections. Required some trial and error to find the best way to sever those connections without popping the bad egg (which you don´t want, because you need to very carefully remove the spilled yolk), though..
And finally, as a more general note: don´t be afraid to use your fingers to pull eggs apart! Egg shells are remarkably sturdy if they are healthy and viable eggs and if you can get decent hold of an egg, you can carefully pull it off (bad eggs will typically pop, though, so don´t try to pull bad eggs off the clutch.
And I do most of those things out of the water..
Cheers,
Sandor
@Marc
Interesting to read that others have the same kind of experience with Pseudacanthicus as I did. And I haven´t tried it with L114 yet. Good luck with raising them!
@Jac
I use a 10mL syringe with a piece of pretty old 6mm airline attached. That airline is almost not flexible anymore, which makes it easier to "grab" the bad egg. The 6mm airline is perfectly sized for almost all eggs (only exception are the very small eggs of common Ancistrus and the like; for those I use a pipette). If the bad egg breaks when you suck it into the syringe make sure you suck in a decent, additional amount of water to flush the area and remove as much protein as possible.
At least for me most eggs don´t break, but I can then carefully pull the rest of the egg clutch off with my fingers. If the bad egg is connected to a lot of other eggs (preferrably good ones), I prefer to use tweezers to first sever most of the connections. Required some trial and error to find the best way to sever those connections without popping the bad egg (which you don´t want, because you need to very carefully remove the spilled yolk), though..
And finally, as a more general note: don´t be afraid to use your fingers to pull eggs apart! Egg shells are remarkably sturdy if they are healthy and viable eggs and if you can get decent hold of an egg, you can carefully pull it off (bad eggs will typically pop, though, so don´t try to pull bad eggs off the clutch.
And I do most of those things out of the water..
Cheers,
Sandor
"What gets us into trouble is not what we don´t know.
It´s what we know for sure that just ain´t so."
--Mark Twain
It´s what we know for sure that just ain´t so."
--Mark Twain
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
Thanks Sandor! I use a syringe as well. But as you point out, the difficult bit starts when the bad egg is attached to lots of good eggs..
I will try your tip on separating the good eggs from the bad out of the water and use some tweezers. I never dare tried that before. I have to take quite a bit of medication to keep myself healthy and that results in shaky hands. I just never was able to separate the eggs good enough under water And so the bad eggs damaged a lot of good eggs surrounding it.
Thanks for the tips
I will try your tip on separating the good eggs from the bad out of the water and use some tweezers. I never dare tried that before. I have to take quite a bit of medication to keep myself healthy and that results in shaky hands. I just never was able to separate the eggs good enough under water And so the bad eggs damaged a lot of good eggs surrounding it.
Thanks for the tips
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
Hi Jac,
just a little more on that topic, realizing that a picture probably says more than an elaborate description.
Only problem is that I need two hands to separate eggs and a third to take the picture (so I´m sorry for it being slightly out of focus)..
Those eggs (L260) didn´t need any attention, but I just had them at hand..
Just stick the tweezers between the eggs and then either very carefully close them around the connection point and pull it off. Or, considerably easier, the tweezers I use broaden to one side, so I just need to push the egg clutch along the tweezer until the connection is severed. After trying it I opted for NOT using a knife for that. You want a blunt(ish) instrument for it, a sharp blade would cut into the egg shell.
If you frequently pop the bad egg, do it out of the water, perhaps on a paper towel, and thorougly rinse the egg clutch under the tap (just don´t turn it on to full power). I find infertile eggs in Hypancistrus lunaorum to have notoriously weak egg shells and they frequently pop, so that´s what I do with them..
As you can probably guess from all the options I brought up so far there is no sure fire way working for every case, and I need to develop a routine for just about every species. It just requires some experimentation (and at least for me it required overcoming some reservations in handling those eggs, but once I realized the hard way that they WILL all be gone if I don´t try it, I by now acquired a lot of good experience with it).
Cheers,
Sandor
just a little more on that topic, realizing that a picture probably says more than an elaborate description.
Only problem is that I need two hands to separate eggs and a third to take the picture (so I´m sorry for it being slightly out of focus)..
Those eggs (L260) didn´t need any attention, but I just had them at hand..
Just stick the tweezers between the eggs and then either very carefully close them around the connection point and pull it off. Or, considerably easier, the tweezers I use broaden to one side, so I just need to push the egg clutch along the tweezer until the connection is severed. After trying it I opted for NOT using a knife for that. You want a blunt(ish) instrument for it, a sharp blade would cut into the egg shell.
If you frequently pop the bad egg, do it out of the water, perhaps on a paper towel, and thorougly rinse the egg clutch under the tap (just don´t turn it on to full power). I find infertile eggs in Hypancistrus lunaorum to have notoriously weak egg shells and they frequently pop, so that´s what I do with them..
As you can probably guess from all the options I brought up so far there is no sure fire way working for every case, and I need to develop a routine for just about every species. It just requires some experimentation (and at least for me it required overcoming some reservations in handling those eggs, but once I realized the hard way that they WILL all be gone if I don´t try it, I by now acquired a lot of good experience with it).
Cheers,
Sandor
"What gets us into trouble is not what we don´t know.
It´s what we know for sure that just ain´t so."
--Mark Twain
It´s what we know for sure that just ain´t so."
--Mark Twain
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
Great info! Thanks!
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Re: Artifical Hatching of Pseudacanthicus
It's a great read and thanks for sharing ! I have a small question thou please pardon me if it sounds noob. The term fresh tap water or direct tap water does it means untreated tap water straight from the tap or its de chlorinated tap/fresh water ? I hope to give this method a shot but don't want to kill e eggs out of my silly mistake. With thanks !