Gap between tank and stand

antec · Post by **antec** » 25 Jan 2014, 01:05

I have a 120 gal on a stand and upon examination I found that there is a gap in the middle between the tank and stand. This gap fits a popsicle stick (or for my Canadian brothers, a toonie). The gap tapers off to each corner and all corners are flush with the stand surface. The tank is made by marineland by perfecto manufacturing. The stand was bought and previously made to hold a large cabinet to put dishware or china glass. The only thing I've done was paint and added new doors. Not quite sure if it's the tank or the stand.

Is there any way to resolve this issue? Has this happened to anyone? If so, how have you fixed it? Has anyone just left it alone and had no issues with breaks or leaks?

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kvnbyl · Post by **kvnbyl** » 25 Jan 2014, 02:54

tanks are primarily supported by the 4 corners. most metal stands have virtually no support in the middle. if it's a 120 it's probably 60x18? I have a couple and they are braced in the middle as these are tall heavy tanks. the easiest thing to do is to put some Styrofoam (not sure what that is called in Canada

under the tank to help level it. you could also use shims to close the gap and maybe put some trim there to hide them. If the corners are well supported then you could support 3 or 4 more places in the 5 ft run and you should be fine. The frames on these tanks are also heavy and offer more support than you might find in a smaller tank.

antec · Post by **antec** » 25 Jan 2014, 03:05

Thnx kvnbyl. Have you ever had a issue with gaps? I think I'm trying to find reassurance. The last thing I want to do is ditch this cabinet(worked on it for a while) and buy another cabinet.

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Post by **Shane** » 25 Jan 2014, 12:47

Antec
Do I understand that the "tank stand" was originally built to hold dishes? I would be concerned about repurposing any piece of furniture to hold a tank that big. With water and decor you are looking at a tank that will weigh almost 1,000 lbs (450 kg). Are you confident that the stand was constructed to bear that much weight?

If you are, I would take the advice above and cut a thick piece of Styrofoam the size of the tank's footprint. As the tank fills it will sink into the Styrofoam and level itself.
-Shane

antec · Post by **antec** » 25 Jan 2014, 13:45

When I completed the stand I felt confident. But thinking about it, I'm questioning myself. I'm now thinking of cutting the tanks footprint right through the cabinet to the floor. Then use cinder blocks to hold the tank. Does that make sense? Would you like me to draw up a diagram?

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Post by **Shane** » 26 Jan 2014, 01:26

Antec
I am not a carpenter. There may be someone here better qualified than I to review your plans however.
-Shane

Post by **Birger** » 26 Jan 2014, 03:42

It is about the transfer of the load...also making sure the cabinet does not fold sideways...is there a way to have a picture of the inside at one end without the doors on.

Birger

antec · Post by **antec** » 26 Jan 2014, 11:13

Burger
A picture of the inside at on end without the doors on?

Do you mean just open the doors and take a picture of the inside? I'm confused

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kvnbyl · Post by **kvnbyl** » 26 Jan 2014, 18:11

if you are that concerned about this stand, and should be with putting 1200 to 1400 lbs on it, why not just build a stand out of cinder blocks (again, it's then 4 corners that need to be supported primarily) and then make an enclosure to fit? I used to use cinder blocks and 2x8s for the stand and then use beadboard or paneling to surround the tank, no reason why it wouldn't work here. hope this helps.

naturalart · Post by **naturalart** » 26 Jan 2014, 18:33

antec, it looks like the floor of your cabinet is sitting on the floor of the room? If so, then all you need to do is measure and cut a piece of wood 2"x4" or metal and jam it, vertically, right in the middle of the cabinet, between the top 'horizontal support' and the floor. Make sure the measurement makes it such that the horizontal support is level or slightly convex. Do this in the front where the doors meet and in the same place in the back. Since you haven't filled the tank yet, I would definitely find a way to fasten these vertical supports in place.

antec · Post by **antec** » 26 Jan 2014, 19:44

Kvndyl
I was just thinking about doing that today. I'm probably going to use the current cabinet for a future tank(maybe) and just support this tank with cinder blocks. Then make a shell around it to hide the blocks.

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antec · Post by **antec** » 27 Jan 2014, 05:10

Ok, after putting in some thought about this issue, I came up with 2 options: scrap the cabinet and make a new one, or modify the existing cabinet and hope it can stand 1500 - 2000lbs. After thinking about a possible fail and having 2000lbs of water everywhere, it was obvious to me that I will scrap the cabinet. I'll use it for a future project. Therefore, I chose to build a new stand.
here's what I though of: cinder blocks stacked at each corner and use lintels placed around the perimeter. This means the tank will sitting on four corners plus lintel perimeter. For those who don't know what a lintel is, it's a 90degree angled price of steel that is used over windows or doors of a bricked house. It's so that you can lay bricks without them falling. Still don't get it? Google it.
Here's some pictures so you have an idea

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antec · Post by **antec** » 27 Jan 2014, 05:10

After this is set up, I'll be building a wooden "she'll" around this to make it look like a wooden cabinet

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YouTube · Post by **Jools** » 27 Jan 2014, 08:48

I have this kind of thing under my 48"x30" tanks. Cinder blocks (or breeze blocks as they are called in the uk) work well. I have a central column to support the middle of the tank. Ontop of the blocks I have a layer of plywood and then a layer of polystyrene.

Hope that helps,

Jools

antec · Post by **antec** » 29 Jan 2014, 00:09

I was thinking about this topic for a bit and I think I'm going back to trying to reinforce the original cabinet. I was looking into different types of wood and their compression and their bending strength. I just purchased bubinga 4x4 wood(5) for the support columns and spruce 2x4 for the skeleton. the Check this site out:
http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/De ... rength.htm

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naturalart · Post by **naturalart** » 13 Feb 2014, 07:24

Bubinga is a hardwood from the tropics. That should be fine. Actually any of the hardwoods, oak, maple, would work also. Douglas fir is another good wood. I have worked little with spruce so can't speak on it.

I would always 'center brace' any tank 4 feet (1.20 meters) or longer. Unless your building with something like 1"x4" billet steel.

2wheelsx2 · Post by **2wheelsx2** » 13 Feb 2014, 16:21

Why not just build a 2x4 frame and skin it instead of trying to reinforce the stand or using cinder blocks for a new one? Cheap and fairly simple and you can make the inside and outside look like anything you want. Joey Mullins' series on Youtube (a fellow Canuck from Nova Scotia) is awesome if you have not seen it.

http://youtu.be/jN4Y9AYuwcQ

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