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Could someone please help?

I am trying to make a major change in my fish room: moving most of my tanks from their INDIVIDUAL stands, to one of those homemade stands/racks,

that are made from basic, pine, 2" x 4" pieces of lumber.

These are not pretty stands/racks, but inexpensive, and very functional.

I have seen these from time to time, usually in photos from some aquarist's fish room. I HAVE SEARCHED THE WEB quite a bit, and every plan I find is for building some fancy, pretty stand, to be used for a DISPLAY tank. I looked at dozens of websites, but could not find the plain, old, ordinary stands. I also tried a few searches on this site, thinking that there might be an article on this topic, or perhaps someone had provided a link to a site, but to no avail.

Does anyone know where such plans might be found?

Thanks! Have a great day everyone.

I just copied what was in my LFS - and they'd had them for 25+ years, so must be OK...

Basic idea:
4 x Uprights go from floor to above the top tank.
Along, you use the 4" side of 2" x 4" vertical (so that it's got the 2" side towards the bottom of the tank).
I combine two different methods to attach the along pieces: screws through the uprights into the end of the along pieces, and a support between the two uprights at each end (sort of making a "H" shape out of the uprights).

I then put 3/4" (actually 18mm) plywood on top of the "along" pieces.

I'll take some photos when I get home and post here.

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Mats

Hi Mats,

Thank you for all the help today!

I'll certainly appreciate any photos... but I'm getting the basic idea.

I WAS surprised a bit, by the plywood. I'm guessing that if that was used in the systems where I saw photos in the past, that it was pretty much hidden by the tank that rested upon it, so I didn't notice it. (I always thought that people had the edges of the tank bottoms resting directly upon the 2x4's.)

All of my L.F.S.'s use methods OTHER THAN this, to support their tanks. That's because they've got the BIG BUCKS!

I'll check back, later on.

I'm pretty sure you can get away without the plywood if the tank fits perfectly on the rack - but I wanted to have the OPTION of putting tanks that do not have the exact same measure as the stand. And it helps keeping the along-pieces from bowing out (which of course can be done by other means).

Edit: And yes, I think most modern stores use different systems, using a centralized sump filtration system, and automatic water level management - which makes sense if you frequently get fish in and out.

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Mats

MatsP wrote:I'm pretty sure you can get away without the plywood if the tank fits perfectly on the rack - but I wanted to have the OPTION of putting tanks that do not have the exact same measure as the stand.

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Mats

Ah yes! Good point. I can see how things could change over time, and I'd have a desire to put a different size tank in a spot.

I don't have any plans made out, but here's a pic of my breeding rack that uses something similar to what's being discussed. Hope it at least helps a bit.

Hi check out this site lots of good info I used this racking for my tanks,
hope this helps http://www.ta-aquaculture.co.uk/Fish_Ho ... Stands.htm

Cheers Gus

The photos in the link above are much better than what I could achieve tonight in the fishroom, so I'm not going to spend time trying to get my photos on here.

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Mats

pleco_breeder, that looks awesome! Wish I had the guts to do that. Overflows scare the heck out of me!

The LFS I used to help with had stands built with 2x4 "runners" (what the tanks sit on), with 2x6 uprights. Stands were 20+ years old and just starting to fall apart.

The over flow assembly design was first published by the the American Killiefish Association over 10 years ago.
They work just like a flush toilet so they can't really over flow any individual tank barring unforeseen clogging of the intakes.
The other design elements for making the system more or less fail safe are having a sump large enough to handle all the drainage when the pump is shut down for any reason or if the sump itself has an emergency over flow prevention provision like the abilities to drain down a floor drain or to the outside; depending on your climate and situation.

2 X 4's work well enough to support the loads. I have 2 stands designed to hold on 3 shelves, 2-20 longs and a 29 High on the top shelf built out of 2 X 2's. Each shelf has a 2 X 2 corbels at 90* to each other per corner to support and fasten the lengthwise and transverse members with 1/2" plywood screwed to the stringers. The bottom of the 4 uprights has an added 2- 2 X 2 screwed to the base at 90* to support the lowest shelf and distribute all the vertical bearing loads to the floor more broadly. Although the basic design is one for a single stand for holding 3 vertical shelves of aquariums, it can be as long as you want it by adding another set of vertical supports and at the connections between each add a 3rd vertical corbel must be added. The 3 corbels at the intersection on each vertical which is attached at each side and interior. The 6 columns for a stand holding 6 tanks takes advantage of what structural engineers call, "group action." I had friends who doubted that basically 2 X 2 framing would be strong enough but I knew it would work. I had a 27 year long career as a structural inspector of high rise reinforced concrete construction in an earthquake prone area(Seattle area) using the same concepts. The materials were different; high strength reinforced concrete columns and thin post-tensioned flat slab construction with column drop heads but the basic concept is the same. Getting ever more out of ever less without compromising safety. Most of you who live or work in high rise buildings trust your lives to this design concept every day.
The 2 X 2 stands are nice especially for single or double vertical 3 shelves because they are so light weight when empty and strong in use. The access is greater with the thinner members and the stands are easily moved when they are empty.

This rack holds a 4ft on top and 2 x 3ft underneath, the rack that is attached
to the left of this hold 3 x 4ft's.
Wood used is 3' x 4' for uprights and 2'x 3' for cross members







Finished rack with tanks







This rack will hold 13 x 2ft tanks end-on when full. Wood used is 3' x 4' for end uprights and 2' x 3' for center support and 3' x 4' for cross members.




The next time I will NOT have the bottom tanks directly on the floor. I will leave at least 10in gap between the floor and the lowest wooden tank support to have a better air flow and to make mopping up any spillages easier

Wow, there are some pretty nice setups here. Might have to slip a few pics of these to my wife.

I found a steel stand which snaps together; no fasteners required, at Home Depot for $125.
I did have to use a little wood, some 2 X 2's and 1/2 inch plywood to widen the shelves a 1/2 inch but it perfectly hold 6-40 gal breeder tanks.

FYI, The GCCA in Chicago is having a workshop this weekend on stand building.

http://www.gcca.net/next_meeting.htm

This thread has a few pics on how I build mine.
http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... =4&t=27127

pleco_breeder wrote:I don't have any plans made out, but here's a pic of my breeding rack that uses something similar to what's being discussed......

Hey Pleco Breeder,

At the very least, I've gotten some ideas from you. Also, I really enjoyed your photo. Thanks a lot. It's great to see the ingenuity and resourcefulness that went into your setup. Very cool, indeed!

2wheelsx2 wrote:Wow, there are some pretty nice setups here. Might have to slip a few pics of these to my wife.

Now THAT is funny! And I know funny, when I hear it!

Seriously, all you guys -- it's going to take me a little while to check out, study, and assimilate all of this great info. I can see that there is everything that I need contained in these posts, photos, and links. (Well, I guess I'll also need some decent, straight lumber.)

I'm grateful for the work that went into these posts, etc., and I surely hope that other P.C. people have enjoyed and learned from these ideas, as I have. Cheers to everyone! Jake/Aquafinatic

pleco_breeder wrote:I don't have any plans made out, but here's a pic of my breeding rack that uses something similar to what's being discussed. Hope it at least helps a bit.

This stand scares me! 100% of the weight of the tanks is supported by only the screws holding the shelf in.

CanadaPleco wrote: This stand scares me! 100% of the weight of the tanks is supported by only the screws holding the shelf in.

I think it's tough to tell from the pics, Rich, but I see 2x4's "under" the 2x4 that's screwed, so yes, it's only screwed, but there is a short 2x4 at each corner between the shelves.

apistomaster wrote:I found a steel stand which snaps together; no fasteners required, at Home Depot for $125.
I did have to use a little wood, some 2 X 2's and 1/2 inch plywood to widen the shelves a 1/2 inch but it perfectly hold 6-40 gal breeder tanks.

I was JUST at Home Depot wondering if any of their steel shelves would be strong enough for fish tanks, but I didn't see that shelf you have. It looks a lot stronger than what they had available. Also, that shelf is like 6' wide, no? I don't have anywhere that I can do construction so I'm looking for a convenient shelf that can be assembled.

Another question: in my research, it appears that most steel shelves are something like 36", 48" etc., while fish tanks are something like 36 1/4" (ie. they exceed the mark by a fraction, probably due to the frame). In the case of 40 gallon breeders, a website says 36 3/16" for the length and 18 1/4" width. However, another website doesn't list the extra. Is this discrepancy real? I'm trying to wrap my head around how a fish tank would fit on such a shelf that is smaller than itself. Even if you extend the top shelf, the middle shelves will have the poles in the way so that you can't extend the shelf? What am I not understanding?

Also, I think I'm going to get a 36" L x 18" W shelf, but my tanks are only 36" L x 12" W. Is this a problem?