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i have 2males 1 female in a 10gallon tank. what temperter/Ph do i need to breed them? and how?

usually i would want to make the tank at 24'C
the ph from 6.7-7

you really have to make sure the ones you have are males and females- at first i thought my bronze cories where all females but it soon turned out they were very fat males

first of all condition them on high protein foods such as Bloodworms and/or brine shrimp make sure you dont feed too much-this will cause bad problems in your tank. feed little and often
then after about 2 weeks of no water changes do a 50% cool water change
if they breed for you, they will continuosly breed every water 1-2 week change if they are fedd and adeqeute amount of food

when i breed my bronze cories i actually did little at all
just fed them high protein and did the water change. i never actually looked at what pH and hardness they were breeding at
people critisize me for doing this but this just shows cories breed very readily

note that bronze and peppered cories are really alike when it comes to breeding habits

I'd have to say you need a bigger tank. A 20 long is good for about 12 of them, solo occupants. 3 males to one female is how they usually participate in that behaviour. Least that's how mine did. So 3 females and 9 males should do you.

lots of hidey holes and caves and some driftwood and live plants, some free open areas. some nice soft sand substrate. They like to be on the cooler side, low 70s to mid 70s. But most of the peppered corys we buy are probably used to the 78 degrees being tank raised and bred. But I did keep mine cooler and they were always spawning.

I fed them defrosted frozen, bloodworm, tubifex , daphnia, shrimp, plankton, krill, as well as sinking tablets (Hikari sinking tropical, Omega One sinking shrimp, Hikari sinking carnivore pellets, NLS granules, TetraMin sinking tablets, sinking earthworm sticks...)

Keep their water well circulated and nice and clean and they will just do their thing. Non stop, all the time. I never purposely simulated a rainy season thru water changes, they just bred.

andywoolloo wrote:I'd have to say you need a bigger tank. A 20 long is good for about 12 of them, solo occupants. 3 males to one female is how they usually participate in that behaviour. Least that's how mine did. So 3 females and 9 males should do you.

lots of hidey holes and caves and some driftwood and live plants, some free open areas. some nice soft sand substrate. They like to be on the cooler side, low 70s to mid 70s. But most of the peppered corys we buy are probably used to the 78 degrees being tank raised and bred. But I did keep mine cooler and they were always spawning.

I fed them defrosted frozen, bloodworm, tubifex , daphnia, shrimp, plankton, krill, as well as sinking tablets (Hikari sinking tropical, Omega One sinking shrimp, Hikari sinking carnivore pellets, NLS granules, TetraMin sinking tablets, sinking earthworm sticks...)

Keep their water well circulated and nice and clean and they will just do their thing. Non stop, all the time. I never purposely simulated a rainy season thru water changes, they just bred.

my cories seemed to start breeding after the rainy season and they breed readily like yours andy after juts normal weekly changes

but getting a bigger tank and mroe companions does increase the rate of breeding and will be alot easier

Peppered cories should do fine in the 10g tank - a bigger tank would of course not hurt!

And they shouldn't be hard to get to spawn. There is an article in Shane's world titled something like "So you want to breed corys?" - it gives general guidelines for how to get them to breed and bringing fry up.

As DJ-don implies, a cold-water change ("rain simulation") will get them "in the mood" if they are mature and well conditioned in general.

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Mats

Thanks for the info this is very helpful

today my peppered corys layed eggs how long does it take them to hatch and if there fertile????

Congratulations.

Take a look at the sticky topic at the top of this forum, there is one called "How to hatch and grow fry" (or something similar). It may not go into specifics of how long it takes to hatch eggs, as that's specific for each species, but it certainly explains how to spot if the eggs are "duds" or "live".

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Mats

great work!
like mats said read the sticky above

i used a seperate container (which doesnt allow water flow through from the main tank) and floated in the main tank for heat.
just add a certain amount of methylene blue so you can just see the eggs because eventually the meth blue dies out

I move mine around quite a bit as janitors cleaning up behind my spoiled angelfish, and they don't seem to give a wit where they are or what they've been fed. I used to feed black worms to help condition them but I'm beginning to think that with mine it was simply a matter of maturity. Now that they are fairly young adults they begin laying eggs at the first onset of barometric change or a water change. Tank temps ranging from 68 to 78.