PlanetCatfish.com

thank you.

First of all, I can't say directly what is wrong with your fish. But I'd like to point out a few things that I think you should at least consider:
I can also say that if you measure 13.4 mg/liter O2, then your $500 O2 meter is not very good, you are using it wrong, or you are misreading/misinterpreting the result - because either you have supersaturated your water (which requires pressurizing oxygen into the water), or your meter isn't actually showing the dissolved oxygen level in the water. No matter how much circulation you have, it doesn't change the way that oxygen and water reacts to each other physically and chemically. Supersaturation can lead to health-problems in fish (similar to "the bends" that divers get when they ascend from depth too quickly - bubbles form in the blood-stream, which in sever cases is fatal), but I doubt very much that you are sticking high-pressure oxygen into your tank, so I think we can reasonably rule that one out. Which leaves something being wrong with your measurement, or laws of physics that applies everywhere is happens to not apply in your tank.

Please cross-reference here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_saturation

You also state that the temperature range change is OK. Since you appear to not know which speceis of Corydoras it is, and a very limited number is "happy" with temperatures around 80'F, I'd say it's a possible candidate. And yes, the pH is also in the high range (outside of what most corys would be happy with - but it's probably less of a problem than temperature). Here is the search results from Callicthyidae that are OK within 80-81'F.

The gravel looks like it's fairly course and not very rounded, which is not ideal for Corys. They prefer fine sand or rounded, fine gravel (around 2-3mm, around 3/32-1/8"). Barbel erosion is often caused by course and not rounded enough gravel.

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Mats

Pardon me sounding like an ass , but really are you going to suggest the two things i specifically said i know it is not? Of course my water can't have more dissolved o2 than water can hold. That’s why their is bubbles. However the measurement device i use also factors in the amount of o2 being released by the water. (Bubbles!!!!)Thus it technically isn't dissolved. However it can still be used by the fish.
MY meter is designed to test the amount of o2 in the water period not just dissolved. Then it subtracts the amount of o2 that makes the bond with hydrogen. It tests specific amounts of a singular element bonded or alone. O is always bonded btw. (o2)
Aparrently you have to do some more reading on Corys. Because if you read about them in general you would know that they have the ability to stay in waters over 90 degrees. They have a special adaptation to their lungs that allows them to breathe oxygen. That’s why they breach. Those numbers they give are temperatures in the wild... Mine are captive raised... Thus they never knew nor care what their wild brethren live or lived in.
Their are reasons why I state peoples obvious questions and comments so that people don't say them.......
But hey its gotta be someone that restates them. Btw dissolved o2 with be more chemistry then physics. Unless somehow the o2 is moving or making work easier. (Which it is not)
Also wikipedia is not a valid source. People edit them to say stupid things all the time.

Sorry if I sounded to harsh I get mad when people restate obvious things.

Fish breathe dissolved oxygen, however. Not bubbles (yes, I do know that Corys can breath atmospheric oxygen, but I doubt your fish are swimming after bubbles in the water). I guess I should have spent some more time finding a better link - I'm used to people accepting Wikipedia, as generally when it's been blatantly messed up, it's also quite quickly corrected. Can you point to anything in the particular link that is directly incorrect - or are you just arguing the point that my link is bad simply because you do not (want to) believe what I said [which is in no way quoted from Wikipedia, but rather an explanation of my understanding of water and oxygen uptake in water and by fish - the link to Wikipedia was just to back up what I was saying - because it was the first hit that matched the google search for "oxygen saturation in water" - I'm sure you are capable of doing such a search yourself, and you already stated that your measurement is not accurate anyways!].

If someone says to you "my truck goes 100 mph, and does 60 mpg at that speed", and then points to a Pickup truck with a 5.7 liter V8 petrol engine, that we both know will do at beast 12mpg in mixed condtions, would you say to that person "Oh, ok, great", or "There must be something wrong with your calculations"?

Question for you: When corys are in a 90'F die from the experience? Yes, the water in the Amazon will certainly reach this sort of temperature at times. But it's not a situation that the fish "likes" - it's something they have evolved to survive - but large numbers also perish at this time. New ones are born during the rainy season when the water is cooler. To keep a stabile population, each adult pair needs to produce another pair - yet cories breed "like rabbits" during the rainy (cool) season. That is to guarantee that there are at least two to replace the parents when the parents "go to fish heaven".

The temperatures in the Cat-eLog is, to the best of our knowledge, the correct temperature for long time keeping and good health of the fish. Fish will certainly not immediately perish at higher or lower temperatures, but it will stress the fish, and stressed fish are more likely to suffer from illnesses and other problems.

My turn to be a bit of an ass: finally, who's got the corys that are unhealthy? You or me? If your fish are entirely healthy, and you know that everything you are doing is right, why are you posting here - particularly with the subjec of "Cory health query"?

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Mats

Hi,

Btw dissolved o2 with be more chemistry then physics. Unless somehow the o2 is moving or making work easier. (Which it is not)

This is plain wrong: Dissolution of gases can be either physical or chemical, with chemical dissolution meaning formation of bonds (excluding hydrogen bonds) with the solvent. Physical dissolution of gases implies that the solute remains chemically unaltered.
Thus, laws of physics can be applied to alter the saturation level of a gas, while chemical "laws" cannot be used, since water does not react with dioxygen under standard conditions. That´s standard knowledge from the 1st semester (if not even school).

Classical example: the dissolution of CO2 in pure water is 99% physical and only slightly chemical according to CO2 + 2 H2O -> HCO3- + H3O+.

Thus they never knew nor care what their wild brethren live or lived in.

This implies that, if I raise a carp from egg (just for example) in water 30°C, it adapts to it and would not thrive in a common pond?
This suggestion defies all basic conclusions of evolutionary biology, I guess.
As a hint: while in general we consider south american rivers as warm, this does not necessarily imply that this applies to all fish in little streams. There´s a reason why corys usually originating from small drainages tend to prefer cooler water..

Cheers, Sandor

as the cories breath they would consume the o2 dissolved into the water so technically the bubbles rising to the top in the time would slowly be dissolved on a minute scale. Thus throwing my meter off. By having oxygen reading high than saturation it is insured that my water has full o2 saturation at all times. Understand? However this excess is counted by my meter as dissolved. Because technically it is included in the water until it hits the top of the water and pops. Thus for that second my device takes it's reading their is more than saturation.

I hardly see how waters ability to hold dissolved oxygen can be applied to physics because their is no physics applied. The ability to hold a certain amount of dissolved o2 is a chemical property and relates in no way to anything physical. They only way physics would be applied is if pressure was being applied. "supper saturation" forcing the water to take the o2. So unless I am applying great deals of force and pressure in a like a diving chamber physics doesn't apply.

This implies that, if I raise a carp from egg (just for example) in water 30°C, it adapts to it and would not thrive in a common pond?
This suggestion defies all basic conclusions of evolutionary biology, I guess.
As a hint: while in general we consider south american rivers as warm, this does not necessarily imply that this applies to all fish in little streams. There´s a reason why corys usually originating from small drainages tend to prefer cooler water..

If they have the adaptions to live in such an environment they would never know the difference. This only applies in a reasonable way. Fact is cories can and do live in waters well over 90 degrees. My cories no show distress in their water. None of my cories have died a natural death. If your somehow suggesting that the 8 degree difference in my water is causing my cories to turn into killers. Well, I just feel sorry for you.
Another thought is why people continue to bring this off topic I wanted to see if anyone had similar experiences with cories. Nothing is wrong with my cories health wise. They are merely becoming extremely aggressive and territorial. So unless you got something to say about your experiences with corys please stop posting.

skaskankerbr wrote:None of my cories have died a natural death

I couldn't resist

I agree with Mats on the temp and the gravel. And I prob would on the oxygen but I do not understand that.

You do not seem very receptive to ideas for your cories.

andywoolloo wrote:I agree with Mats on the temp and the gravel. And I prob would on the oxygen but I do not understand that.

You do not seem very receptive to ideas for your cories.

gravel i know but i haven't had any problem so far with the barbels of the big group. Temperature well it's voided because i have had deaths before i raised the temp. This started back when i had it at 66-70F. Then i bought the plecos so i raised the temp.
I came home to find Fish B dead with ghost shrimp all over him. They didn't kill him he's way to big for them. They found him dead. I give up.... This one was his own fault. He refused to eat for like the last 2 weeks.
I am so close to just selling the cories........

I think i made a positive Id on Group A. I stared at pictures and compared every last pigment and line until i narrowed it down to two differnet cories. Corydoras delphax or Corydoras melanistius (however these are associated with not having markings on their tail mine clearly do.... So corydoras delphax it is.

“Thus for that second my device takes it's reading their is more than saturation.”
I can’t speak for you, but most DO monitors do not measure dissolute oxygen as that would defy the purpose of the machine. The ones I have used in laboratory work are membrane bound galvanic instruments, which do not account for the “bubbles on the side of the glass”. Now, like I said, I can’t really vouch for your particular case, but it is my assumption that, by shelling out 500 clams on a DO meter, it would at least serve its functionality.


“I hardly see how waters ability to hold dissolved oxygen can be applied to physics because their is no physics applied. The ability to hold a certain amount of dissolved o2 is a chemical property and relates in no way to anything physical.”
Henry’s law is basic physics. Please learn it, then learn what physics means.


"Fact is cories can and do live in waters well over 90 degrees."
Give me a source. Given that you've been blatantly wrong about other things, I figure that it is probably unwise to take your exclusive word as fact.


Another thought is why people continue to bring this off topic I wanted to see if anyone had similar experiences with cories.
My personal guess is that it has to do with you being in ass in like, every topic you post in. Just a thought.


So unless you got something to say about your experiences with corys please stop posting.
Fair enough. Some thoughts of my own--barbel erosion IMO, is not necessarily attributed to any particular shape of the gravel or whatever...just general maintenance. I have seen instances of barbel erosion inthe finest of sands, and have personally had great successes with fish in substrates as coarse as flourite (not by preference, but by mistake). Moreover, the assumption that corydoras, or for that matter, any fish can thrive at any pH within what you consider "reasonable" is plainly incorrect. I do agree, however, that the delphax lookalikes, at least the ones I've had exposure to, are pretty tolerant of changes in water chemistry. Also, if that tank has indeed been set up for two years, there is probably some sort of biological problem in the system. White gravel, at two years old and of that depth, should have a fair amount of visible bacterial granular flocculent on it...contrary to a being associated with poor upkeep, this is actually a sign of biological health. In fact, the whole setup looks far too sterile to be the age it has been purported to be without having some major balance problems.

Jon wrote: “Thus for that second my device takes it's reading their is more than saturation.”
I can’t speak for you, but most DO monitors do not measure dissolute oxygen as that would defy the purpose of the machine. The ones I have used in laboratory work are membrane bound galvanic instruments, which do not account for the “bubbles on the side of the glass”. Now, like I said, I can’t really vouch for your particular case, but it is my assumption that, by shelling out 500 clams on a DO meter, it would at least serve its functionality.


“I hardly see how waters ability to hold dissolved oxygen can be applied to physics because their is no physics applied. The ability to hold a certain amount of dissolved o2 is a chemical property and relates in no way to anything physical.”
Henry’s law is basic physics. Please learn it, then learn what physics means.


"Fact is cories can and do live in waters well over 90 degrees."
Give me a source. Given that you've been blatantly wrong about other things, I figure that it is probably unwise to take your exclusive word as fact.


Another thought is why people continue to bring this off topic I wanted to see if anyone had similar experiences with cories.
My personal guess is that it has to do with you being in ass in like, every topic you post in. Just a thought.


So unless you got something to say about your experiences with corys please stop posting.
Fair enough. Some thoughts of my own--barbel erosion IMO, is not necessarily attributed to any particular shape of the gravel or whatever...just general maintenance. I have seen instances of barbel erosion inthe finest of sands, and have personally had great successes with fish in substrates as coarse as flourite (not by preference, but by mistake). Moreover, the assumption that corydoras, or for that matter, any fish can thrive at any pH within what you consider "reasonable" is plainly incorrect. I do agree, however, that the delphax lookalikes, at least the ones I've had exposure to, are pretty tolerant of changes in water chemistry. Also, if that tank has indeed been set up for two years, there is probably some sort of biological problem in the system. White gravel, at two years old and of that depth, should have a fair amount of visible bacterial granular flocculent on it...contrary to a being associated with poor upkeep, this is actually a sign of biological health. In fact, the whole setup looks far too sterile to be the age it has been purported to be without having some major balance problems.

One I really don't care what you have to say. (As far as your first 3 parts of your post) Please read any good article on cories and you'd know that they live in small tidal pools in the Amazon. These tidal pools can get up to 90 degree. I really have no need to make friends here and the only thing you guys have done is criticize every word I say so really, who is starting it?

I don't have enough time in the world to explain every sentence I write. Accept what I say and work with it doesn’t just correct it. Fact is the specifications of my o2 monitoring device are completely irrelevant to the situation. By continuing the conversation you’re doing nothing, but being an idiot. (Which is why I am aggravated in the first place)....

My gravel is in top care I clean the outsides of the tank every day.... Just the border of the gravel. This is to make it look clean. Why would I want crappy looking gravel in my pictures....?

“One I really don't care what you have to say. (As far as your first 3 parts of your post) “
How convenient to not care about your own inaccuracies.

“Please read any good article on cories and you'd know that they live in small tidal pools in the Amazon. These tidal pools can get up to 90 degree.”
Dry season charcas, which I assume are the tidal pools of which you speak, are the “worst case scenario” environments, as it were, for these fish. They cannot survive for extended periods of time in these taxing situations. I guess what I’m saying is that no “good article” I have ever read on callichthyids has ever mentioned keeping them at 90+ degrees—on the other hand, it is a widespread and common practice to maintain these fish in cooler water tanks . I should point out still have yet to see your purported source.

“I really have no need to make friends here and the only thing you guys have done is criticize every word I say so really, who is starting it?”
On the contrary, everyone starts off trying to help, you become indignant. Protip; if you find that everyone is ganged up against your point of view, it’s usually you, not them.

“By continuing the conversation you’re doing nothing, but being an idiot. (Which is why I am aggravated in the first place)....”
If I just blew five hundred bucks on a piece of crap, I’d probably get defensive and start calling everyone else an idiot, too.

"My gravel is in top care I clean the outsides of the tank every day.... Just the border of the gravel. This is to make it look clean. Why would I want crappy looking gravel in my pictures....?"
Well, frankly, the only way for your gravel to look like this is with fish living it in is that 1) you’re lying about the age of the system or 2) you just changed all the gravel in the tank. In a healthy system, as I stated, you get pellet growth on your gravel surfaces. Daily suction will not remove these microorganisms. Especially not in gravel that deep. Anyways, if this is in fact a new tank, you might want to monitor nitrogenous contaminant levels,just be sure not spend 500 bucks on the test kit this time.

Jon wrote:“One I really don't care what you have to say. (As far as your first 3 parts of your post) “
How convenient to not care about your own inaccuracies.

“Please read any good article on cories and you'd know that they live in small tidal pools in the Amazon. These tidal pools can get up to 90 degree.”
Dry season charcas, which I assume are the tidal pools of which you speak, are the “worst case scenario” environments, as it were, for these fish. They cannot survive for extended periods of time in these taxing situations. I guess what I’m saying is that no “good article” I have ever read on callichthyids has ever mentioned keeping them at 90+ degrees—on the other hand, it is a widespread and common practice to maintain these fish in cooler water tanks .
“I really have no need to make friends here and the only thing you guys have done is criticize every word I say so really, who is starting it?”
On the contrary, everyone starts off trying to help, you become indignant. Protip; if you find that everyone is ganged up against your point of view, it’s usually you, not them.

“By continuing the conversation you’re doing nothing, but being an idiot. (Which is why I am aggravated in the first place)....”
If I just blew five hundred bucks on a piece of crap, I’d probably get defensive and start calling everyone else an idiot, too. "My gravel is in top care I clean the outsides of the tank every day.... Just the border of the gravel. This is to make it look clean. Why would I want crappy looking gravel in my pictures....?"
Well, frankly, the only way for your gravel to look like this is with fish living it in is that 1) you’re lying about the age of the system or 2) you just changed all the gravel in the tank. In a healthy system, as I stated, you get pellet growth on your gravel surfaces. Daily suction will not remove these microorganisms. Especially not in gravel that deep. Anyways, if this is in fact a new tank, you might want to monitor nitrogenous contaminant levels,just be sure not spend 500 bucks on the test kit this time.

I should point out still have yet to see your purported source.
i can find the sales ticket for the tank if you would like to have it. So far i have had it up and running since around may 2006. I hardly see how you should care about this. Don't be jeaslous that my gravel looks better than yours. =p I am well aware of nitrite readings and i moniter them often. If they are microorganism general you can't see them.. don don don....

and oh yeah here yours quote and link
'Labyrinth Breathers: Corydoras prefer to live in cooler waters but possess an auxiliary breathing organ that enables them to survive in those shallow pools of low oxygen warm water. You can see them come up to the top to breathe. If you’ve walked barefoot along a river in the summer, you know how warm these shallow pools can get."
http://aqualandpetsplus.com/Catfish,%20Corydoras.htm
being that my water is 75-82 i hardly find that out of the ordinary from nearly every range on every website including this one!!!!!!!
http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/sp ... ies_id=474
If you notice that your Corydoras occasionally leaves the bottom to breathe air at the surface, there is no need to be alarmed. This is a normal behaviour in Corydoras and does not indicate gill infections. The fish draws air into its mouth and absorb it through the wall of its intestine. Left over air is then released through the vent. This fascinating form of breathing is an adaptation to low-oxygen waters.
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/corydoras/Now wether the ignorance of my machines is causing you to make these assumptions fact is i don't care. Stop posting drop it. It really isn't that important. If you read my posts it would make sense i refuse to explain my device again. I never said I paid for it. Btw the device is a chemical isolating device used by chemical plants in louisiana. The probe costs 500$ the machine. I don't even know , but i would assume it cost on the upward scale of millions. This is due to it's ability to isolate individual elements and give an accurate break down of what a chemical or solid contains. It is not mine. However I test my water with it.

It seems as though it is more of a fraction of the people here that seem to disagree and have some "smart" comment to make about everything. Don't include yourself with the majority to fool yourself into thinking your correct.
How do you know so much about everything? was asked of a very wise and intelligent man; and the answer was 'By never being afraid or ashamed to ask questions as to anything of which I was ignorant.
John Abbott

skaskankerbr wrote:being that my water is 75-82 i hardly find that out of the ordinary from nearly every range on every website including this one!!!!!!!
http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/sp ... ies_id=474

Can I point out that you use a link that says 70-75F to motivate that your range of 75-82 is correct. 75 is fine for this fish, but long term keeping at 82 is not.

As to the temperature in shallow pools, I still would like to point out that whilst some of the fish will survive this condition, this is the time of year when the largest portion of the mature fish dies - yes, some of them will survive this, but many will perish at this time - if you ever watch any of the "Amazon nature programs".

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Mats

MatsP wrote:

skaskankerbr wrote:being that my water is 75-82 i hardly find that out of the ordinary from nearly every range on every website including this one!!!!!!!
http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/sp ... ies_id=474

Can I point out that you use a link that says 70-75F to motivate that your range of 75-82 is correct. 75 is fine for this fish, but long term keeping at 82 is not.

As to the temperature in shallow pools, I still would like to point out that whilst some of the fish will survive this condition, this is the time of year when the largest portion of the mature fish dies - yes, some of them will survive this, but many will perish at this time - if you ever watch any of the "Amazon nature programs".

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Mats

However i never said that. I just said they could. And i was yelled at for being wrong. I write things short and consice (i think). I don't back up everything i say, but i can if you would like me to as I have. My water peaks at 82 however it is rarely out of the high 70s. i'd say the average is 79 now.

Yes, but the origin of this thread is to find a cause for poor health in your fish, and if every time someone points out a potential cause, you immediately come back with "but that's OK because " followed by some sort of inaccurate/misunderstanding, it is quite useful to try to rectify that misunderstanding. Temperature above the mid-70's is outside the recommended range for nearly all corys.

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Mats

MatsP wrote:Yes, but the origin of this thread is to find a cause for poor health in your fish, and if every time someone points out a potential cause, you immediately come back with "but that's OK because " followed by some sort of inaccurate/misunderstanding, it is quite useful to try to rectify that misunderstanding. Temperature above the mid-70's is outside the recommended range for nearly all corys.

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Mats

Name one thing thing i said was inaccurate in my posts. Not the physics thing cause thats not good enough. You insist on acusing me , however you provide 0 evidence to justify yourself. You just insist I am wrong. What makes you right? This is really childish that you continue to deny the facts. Temp has nothing to do with this problem.
And as i said it doesn't matter anymore. Fish is dead. It's done. Don't repost. Pm me if you have a problem and i'll be sure to back my research up.

skaskankerbr wrote:

MatsP wrote:Yes, but the origin of this thread is to find a cause for poor health in your fish, and if every time someone points out a potential cause, you immediately come back with "but that's OK because " followed by some sort of inaccurate/misunderstanding, it is quite useful to try to rectify that misunderstanding. Temperature above the mid-70's is outside the recommended range for nearly all corys.

--
Mats

Name one thing thing i said was inaccurate in my posts. Not the physics thing cause thats not good enough. You insist on acusing me , however you provide 0 evidence to justify yourself. You just insist I am wrong. What makes you right? This is really childish that you continue to deny the facts. Temp has nothing to do with this problem.
And as i said it doesn't matter anymore. Fish is dead. It's done. Don't repost. Pm me if you have a problem and i'll be sure to back my research up.

RIGHT. skaskankerbr, one more post like this and you are banned. Respect your fellow users or don't use the site.

Jools

So, you are insisting that 79-81'F is the CORRECT temperature to keep your fish, even before you have identified them, and then when we give you a correct identification, you still insist that it's the correct temperature for the fish, despite evidence shown of it NOT being the case. That is, in my point of view "refusing to take given advice".

Did you expect someone to say "add medication X and all will be well"?

Corys, in general, are easy to keep, long lived fish, relatively good at "looking after themselves" against other fishes, etc. So if your fish are not healthy SOMETHING is not right with your fish. In my personal opinion, just about EVERYTHING you have said indicates that you are not having ideal conditions:

• pH is too high - yes, it's hard to fix, and on it's own probably not the cause of problems.
• Dissolved oxygen you give a comletely unrealistic number, so who knows what it actually is. Also, if you have a HUGE amount of flow in the tank, it may actually contribute to stress of the fish - as cories are not "fast moving water fish".
• Most cories, including the ones you have are better off in the low to mid 70'F - you are in the high 70's to low 80's.
• The substrate is far from ideal (and may well contribute to the pH level - many "white" stones are calciferous, and thus will slowly dissolve into the water unless it is already very hard water with high pH levels).
• You have actually not indicated what your other fish in the tank is - just that YOU think they are OK. How do we know that wherever you got the advice from is OK (you seem to not believe OUR sources, so why should we believe any of yours - after all, trust is a mutual thing).

It is fairly common that the cause of problems in a tank is not just one factor (because fish are generally fairly resilient to "bad conditions"), but a combination of several things that push the fish "over the limit".

Believe it or not, but I do want to help you - but if everything anyone says is met with "No, that's not the reason, please give me another idea", despite our experience being that the very thing said IS generally a cause for concern", then, eventually, it will end with you not receiving any reply at all.

--
Mats

“I hardly see how you should care about this. Don't be jeaslous that my gravel looks better than yours. =p”
I care because you expressed concern about the well being of your fish, and I am searching for possibilities as to why they might be dying of like flies. And far be it for me to say, but contrary to being jealous, I feel any of the “colored” gravels tend to be unnatural, grating on the eyes, and just don’t showcase my fish as well as I’d like. You can keep that stuff which appears to be pebbles covered in white-out.

“ If they are microorganism general you can't see them.. don don don....”
Right, because bacteria aren’t actually made of matter. They are figments of imagination. Don don don indeed.

“ Corydoras prefer to live in cooler waters but possess an auxiliary breathing organ that enables them to survive in those shallow pools of low oxygen warm water.”
The operant word here is survive. This indicates that, under these conditions, said fish are under great amounts of physiological stress, and this breath apparatus is merely a means to scrape by in the most trying of times. Many don’t. As for your tank conditions, I don’t disagree. Those water readings are not out of the norm in terms of temp, though they are at the high end of what I would consider acceptable for corydora. Since you’re basically shooting down any and all ideas, and frankly, probably not being very honest (get it? It’s a pun. Ha ha.), there’s not a lot to work with here, so we have to grasp for straws.

"Stop posting drop it. It really isn't that important. If you read my posts it would make sense i refuse to explain my device again. I never said I paid for it. Btw the device is a chemical isolating device used by chemical plants in louisiana. The probe costs 500$ the machine. I don't even know , but i would assume it cost on the upward scale of millions. This is due to it's ability to isolate individual elements and give an accurate break down of what a chemical or solid contains. It is not mine. However I test my water with it."
You’re probably right, I should drop it. But I won’t. What sort of machine are we talking about here? I’ve had some exposure working with waste water treatment, and based on what I’ve used DO probes are always electro-chemical membranous devices explained above. If you’re measuring your tank params with it, you should at least know how it works, and when the readings are incorrect. Also, I didn’t know your local government could lease you a million dollar probe…or do you drive your tank there every week just to get it check up?

"How do you know so much about everything? was asked of a very wise and intelligent man; and the answer was 'By never being afraid or ashamed to ask questions as to anything of which I was ignorant.
John Abbott"
You know what the wise man probably didn't do? He didn't collectively label everyone who came in to answer his question as idiotic.

"Name one thing thing i said was inaccurate in my posts. Not the physics thing cause thats not good enough. You insist on acusing me , however you provide 0 evidence to justify yourself. You just insist I am wrong. What makes you right? This is really childish that you continue to deny the facts. Temp has nothing to do with this problem."
To be fair, what could be more wrong than misunderstanding the very laws that mold every observable phenomena in existence? Also, while I do disagree with Mats on this particular subject and believe that temperature is probably not the issue, the fact that the entirety of the hobby aside from yourself asserts that the preferable temperature for keeping most callichythids rests at the mid to low 70s really means that, chances are, your information is probably incorrect. As for him denying the facts, isn't that what you've been doing since post number 2? I hardly see you as having any grounds to talk.

I will continue to believe that your problem is probably a chemical or water quality imbalance in concert with previous stresses put forth via lousy fish store and importer conditions, leading to bacterial infection. But seeing as how you'll vehemently disagree, all I can say is, it's your loss.

I want to draw (another) line under this. Business as usual from now on please...

Jools

it's over and it's not worth my time clearly nobody could help. It has just turned into pointless bickering that's going nowhere. so i am editing my posts and please delete this thread.

[Mod edit: Ok. I've locked this thread --Mats]