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Today I collected a group of 9 C. Aneaus Goldstripe wildcatch Peru here in the Netherlands. I'm really pleased with them, altough they are still relatively small (about 4cm).
I housed them in my newly 70cmx35cmx35cm tank of about 73L. For filtration I use an Eheim 2210 internal filter with a capacity of 550 L/h combined with another internal filter from Superfish Aquaflow 2 with a capacity of 500 liters.

As I look at them, i wonder if there isn't too much current for these little fellas. What do you think?

And as I know how fond you guys are for pics, enclosed are some of them. Too bad they are not really sharp, as they are just too quick for my camera.

Enjoy, and thanks for the response!




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nice looking corys.

i take it your using a digital point n shoot.
if i were you, put a stone or something similar in the tank to focus on, then press the shutter 1/2 way in, this makes the camera autofocus on the stone, and then the focus is set, then move the camera about until the corydoras are in focus, and hopefully you'll end up with sharp images.

I don't think the currents set up by your filiter will bring nothing but joy to your Corys. All the species I've ever kept reveled in a strong flows, besides driftwood and or rock strategically placed produce areas of reduced currents for them to seek out when the mood moves them.
I haven't kept any of thesenew bright striped Corys but I'm beginning to get an urge to do so. They really are attractive.

Thanks for the replies guys. In the meantime, i removed one filter as the cory's were just blowed away from the sand. Could be because there's no driftwood in yet (lies in the bathtub with a giant cookinpot on it, cause it wouldn't sink yet).

I will make a picture of the entire setup once the setup is ready! Thanks for the tips P. Madman!

I would really recommend these to you Apistomaster, i think they are absolutely gorgeous. Although i must admit that in the LFS I had some serious problem deciding whether to get these or the Cory Adolfoi...but perhaps for another time and another tank!

Hey warrior,
I have to draw the line somewhere. Aside from the 10 varieties of small Hypancistrus and Peckoltia I gathered to breed I also have Corydoras albino aeneus, paleatus, sterbai, hastatus, adolfi, dupleclerus, habrosus, panda, and erharti I think I have enough. Not to mention the pit bull plecos, paraotocinclus spilosoma, Sturisoma nigirostrum, Red lizard L010a, common bushy Nose in three phenotypes and Tatia perugiae oil cats, I have a full house.
Breeding discus takes up a lot of my space, too. And the Half Moon Bettas and I'm getting some killies again. Fall through early summer is the only time I have low enough temps to keep killies. Just enough time to hatch out a batch and get them sold off before it get's too hot here.

Hey Apistomaster,

I can only imagine what your house looks like...quite a family you got there
As another forumposter remembered me that the water temperaturer for Aneaus (24C) and L134 don't quite match. Do you have a suggestion for suitable tankmates (preferably Loricariidae)?

Thanks!

Warrior,
I have two cats to consider that won't directly conflict with L134. Corydoras sterbai and Red Lizard Loricaria L010a.
I bought a small house and it is as much a fish room as an abode.

Hi Apistomaster,

Sorry, think you misunderstood me... I meant suitable tankmates for the C. Aneus Goldstripe...This as the L134 conflict with them for the temperature.

Thanks, and love to see pics of the house

I would think both could co-exist in 80dF. water temperature without being far outside of their comfort zones. Should be many others out here who have advice. I have 7 L134 but I keep them at about 84dF. I have'nt actually tried them at 80dF but I think they would be OK. This is a new batch, still in quarantine and 84dF is meant to help speeed up parasite life cycles so I can zonk them when they are vulnerable to dissovled meds in the tank water. I recently lost 6 due to mysterious circumstances so I do not have all the answers. I know that they died after gorging on live blackworms as usual but accompanied with a large water change, I added API chlorine/chloramine remover but the fish went into immediate distress and began dying. Only one made it through this disaster. I am being more cautious with the size of the water changes and not allowing them to eat their fill of live black worms.
As far as other Loricariidids the choices are many. A few of my favorites are L066 King Tigers, L333 Yellow tigers, and the ever popoular and beautiful L260 queen Arabesque. I would just keep others that like the same conditions and don't get much different sizes. L204 Flash is another one I have come to like a lot.

Apisto,

My Aneus are on water of 24 degrees C, which is about 75F I think. Do you think that species like L134 and L260 can live comfortably at those temperatures?? It looks like somewhat cold to me for these species?

Warrior wrote:Apisto,

My Aneus are on water of 24 degrees C, which is about 75F I think. Do you think that species like L134 and L260 can live comfortably at those temperatures?? It looks like somewhat cold to me for these species?

I would say that that's a bit on the cool side - particularly if they are recently introduced or you plant to keep it that way for a long time. A short period (a couple of weeks or so) at that temperature may actually do them good if they are in good condition - it's resembling the winter (rainy) season to them.

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Mats

Mats,

What temperature do you suggest?? I checked the Elogg for the standard Aeneus and i set them on 24C.

Your help would be greatly appreciated!

I meant that it was on the cool side for L134/L260, not the . 24'C is fine for C. aeneus.

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Mats

Yeah, i thought so too.
Do you have a suggestion for suitable tankmate for the Cory's? This as L260 and/or 134 can't coexist with C. Aneus.

Thanks, Ruud

There are probably a few hundred CATFISH that can coexist with corys at that temperature.

It's almost impossible to suggest "the right" one for you, since I don't really know what you like...

There's also plenty of non-CATFISH that would be suitable - and may even be BETTER choices, as they are more likely to use the upper layers of water, such as many Tetras, Danios, etc, etc. Again, it's hard for me to say what you should or shouldn't keep, as it's to do with personal taste...

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Mats

I know what you mean Mats. In the first place, this tank (70x35x35cm) was meant as a L134 or L260 tank with some tankmates (probably Cory's). Then I stumbled across these group of Goldstripes and just didnt pay attention to the required temp of the water. Just plain stupid you could say!!

I would really like to add 1 or maybe 2 small goodlooking Loricariidae. But all the nice ones that i see, and that are obtainable here in the Netherlands (for instance L066,L333, L260, L134) are only suited for hotter water than these Cory's.

Maybe the best question is: what Loricariidae can happily live in a 70x35 tank at about 24C???

If this is a bridge too far, Apistogramma's and/or Tetra's are another option.

Thanks, Ruud

Common whiptails cats and "Chaetostoma thomasi" handle mid to low 70dF.

I'd add common bristlenose to the list.

There's plenty of others. For example is listed as 22-26'C/72-78'F.

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Mats

Thanks for the suggestion guys.

I think the Peckoltia Vittata is a good one, as it looks a lot like the L134. As said, I prefer to add a Peckoltia or Hypancistrus specie.

Can you tell me how to spot the difference from the Vittata and the L134?

Warrior,
You are assuming that your gold stripes and C. aeneus are one and the same species. There is a widespread view that the fluorescent striped varieties are closer to C. melanotaenia in origin, but probably constitute seperate species in their own right.

I would suggest they will tolerate higher temperatures than are quoted for C. aeneus, but wouldn't stray beyond 80F for long periods of time.

There's an interesting article on Shane's World:

http://www.planetcatfish.com/shanesworl ... cle_id=182

the author also makes reference to the visual similarities with C. aeneus.

Mark.

Mark,
You made a very good point referring to the article in Shane's World about these new Corydoras not being the same as aeneas.
MatsP,
Likewise. P.vttata has the tolerance and the looks but the bushynose has an edge over them as algae eaters. I have actually put both these plecs in with my Heckels after having to remove Sturisoma nigirostrum because the were very aggressive towards the Heckels beginning when they grew from 3 inches to 5 inches. The Sturisoma became relentless in their attackes until all ten discus had broad raw areas on their skins let alone the constant stress these "remoras" caused. After making the change my Heckels have healed completely and are much more at ease. I do not have any Corydoras in the discus tank but the P. vittata seem to eat the meaty left overs and there is one L181? Gold Nugget that is an all in one omnivore. They take the place that Corys would ordinarily occupy but I think they are even better suited to this set up than Corys.

Mark, Mats, Apisto,

Thank you all for your help. As it goes, this thread is developing itself from tankmates to the question what the best temp is to keep this little guys (and hopefully ladies).

I would really hate to loose some, due to careless handling. So is it save to say that they should be kept LIKE C. Melanotaenia? What would you guys do?

The C. sp "Gold laser" is actually quite a hardy species and as long as they have been acclimatised to your conditions they do not need any special care. I successfully breed these on a regular basis and find them to be fairly easy to raise. Breeding the "Gold laser"

Ian

Thanks for your reply Coryman.

I have the fish since saturday in my tank at 24C. Can you please tell me at what temp you keep your Gold Laser?
I read in your article that you keep your spawning tanks at 23C, but do you take this temp to get them to spawn or is this your regular temperature?

Thanks!

23ºC + or - 1 or 2 degrees is what I keep the "Gold lasers" at, it is a little up and down because there is a 24 hour variance in my fish house. It also varies during the summer months in acordance with the weather. I the winter months it is a little more constant. I find triggering a spawning is fairly easy now, just a large 70% water change, although it took almost a year to get then to spawn the first time.

Ian

Thanks Coryman, you have been a great help!