Shallow big tank
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whiteymoza
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Shallow big tank
Im looking for a shallow (about8-12ins) but wide and long 3ftx3ft tank in the uk anywhere I could possibly find one?
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MatsP
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Jools have 4ft x 30" tanks (and 18" high) custom made. Not sure where from...
I would think that just about any custom tank builder will be capable of putting this size tank together, more or less...
It would be interesting to hear what you find from your research, as I'm also looking at getting a custom tank or two made up for my fish-hut - but it'll be a couple of months before I can start working on the fish-hut, still plenty of work left on the actual living quarters of the house itself...
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Mats
I would think that just about any custom tank builder will be capable of putting this size tank together, more or less...
It would be interesting to hear what you find from your research, as I'm also looking at getting a custom tank or two made up for my fish-hut - but it'll be a couple of months before I can start working on the fish-hut, still plenty of work left on the actual living quarters of the house itself...
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Mats
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pturley
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The water depth (an subsequent pressure) determine the thickness of glass or acrylic needed in an aquarium. At those sizes, this tank could be made cost effectively out of 1/4" or 5/16" acrylic. I wouldn't recommend glass due to flex.
If you're handy, check out this article:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/d ... uarium.php
(you'll have to cut and paste then edit "C-ichlid" in the URL above)
Excellent work by the author on this one BTW!
If you're handy, check out this article:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/d ... uarium.php
(you'll have to cut and paste then edit "C-ichlid" in the URL above)
Excellent work by the author on this one BTW!
Sincerely,
Paul E. Turley
Paul E. Turley
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pleco_farmer
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The acrylic article is one of the best out there.
Since the tank can be made from a single sheet of 4' X 8' acrylic, you may want to step up to 3/8". Paul is spot on that 1/4" is sufficient, but keep in mind that the additional thickness is a bit easier to work with. After working in 3/8" (80-90mm) mostly by myself, I have come to appreciate the extra edge. Of course, the downside is added cost and a bit of added weight.
You may also want to build a quick jig from cheaper sheet goods, like MDF or plywood. I will usually make a bottom and two adjoining sides dimensioned to fit the inside of the finished tank. When working alone, it helps to have plenty of clamping options.
Another invaluable tool is a small router table. Most router fences can be setup for edge joining. The operation removes 1/32" to 1/16" from the edge while maintaining square, and leaving a pristine edge for seaming. My trusty BenchDog (150.00USD) has performed well over the years.
Another option, plywood coated with marine epoxy. (I use West Systems 105/205)I have done custom sizes in birch plywood, routing out "windows" backed by acrylic sheet, siliconed against the inside wall. Although you are still buying acrylic for the window panes, you drop the two big sheets for top and bottom, and maybe a side or two. I usually find large enough pieces in the scrap bin at my acrylic dealer. At 3', I would run one bulkhead across the tank, midway along the bottom and up the sides. This is just a ring of plywood in a vertical orientation, similar to the top sheet reinforcing acrylic aquariums.
At 3' X 1', I would leave at least 1.5" of wood around the windows. The birch takes a nice finish, and a bit of trim hides the plywood edges. For high end construction, I have milled out corner posts, with dadoes to accept the plywood edges at the corners.
If you are interested, I rambled on at large about plywood...
http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... ht=plywood
Looks like my web server is down, so phots arent up right now, after work, I will get the thing restarted.
Since the tank can be made from a single sheet of 4' X 8' acrylic, you may want to step up to 3/8". Paul is spot on that 1/4" is sufficient, but keep in mind that the additional thickness is a bit easier to work with. After working in 3/8" (80-90mm) mostly by myself, I have come to appreciate the extra edge. Of course, the downside is added cost and a bit of added weight.
You may also want to build a quick jig from cheaper sheet goods, like MDF or plywood. I will usually make a bottom and two adjoining sides dimensioned to fit the inside of the finished tank. When working alone, it helps to have plenty of clamping options.
Another invaluable tool is a small router table. Most router fences can be setup for edge joining. The operation removes 1/32" to 1/16" from the edge while maintaining square, and leaving a pristine edge for seaming. My trusty BenchDog (150.00USD) has performed well over the years.
Another option, plywood coated with marine epoxy. (I use West Systems 105/205)I have done custom sizes in birch plywood, routing out "windows" backed by acrylic sheet, siliconed against the inside wall. Although you are still buying acrylic for the window panes, you drop the two big sheets for top and bottom, and maybe a side or two. I usually find large enough pieces in the scrap bin at my acrylic dealer. At 3', I would run one bulkhead across the tank, midway along the bottom and up the sides. This is just a ring of plywood in a vertical orientation, similar to the top sheet reinforcing acrylic aquariums.
At 3' X 1', I would leave at least 1.5" of wood around the windows. The birch takes a nice finish, and a bit of trim hides the plywood edges. For high end construction, I have milled out corner posts, with dadoes to accept the plywood edges at the corners.
If you are interested, I rambled on at large about plywood...
http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... ht=plywood
Looks like my web server is down, so phots arent up right now, after work, I will get the thing restarted.
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Dorad
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