How to cut flowerpots

drpleco · Post by **drpleco** » 23 Oct 2005, 01:50

I hope this is in the appropriate forum. If not, please feel free to move it wherever.

That said, does anyone know a reliable way to cut clay pots in half? Currently, I buy a bunch, break them, and hope to get good pieces for caves. If I could cut them in half, I'd save a lot of wasted pots (and $$).

The only power tool I have is a drill. I have a hack saw, but haven't used it successfully on anything but PVC and wood. Anyone have a better way? Thanks!!!!

Andy

Jackster · Post by **Jackster** » 23 Oct 2005, 02:34

I use an abrasive (concrete) blade in my electric circular saw. These blades are inexpensive
and will cut flower pots easily. Make sure you cut them outside as the process will make a large
amount of dust. I've cut many types of various pots and tubes this way and remember to wear
safety glasses!

pturley · Post by **pturley** » 24 Oct 2005, 02:52

You can buy a carbide rod saw to fit your hacksaw frame. They work great in softer ceramics (IE: flowerpots and bisque tiles).

It also helps to wet the pots first, it creates less dust and they'll be less likely to crack if you slip up.

drpleco · Post by **drpleco** » 24 Oct 2005, 03:18

that's what I was looking for...thanks!!!!!!!!!!

MatsP · Post by **MatsP** » 24 Oct 2005, 11:14

The above advice is good. I've also used a regular metal-saw-blade, which is OK in an emergency.

Another method that works is to drill a row of holes and crack along those.

Finally, garden-centres often give away (for free) the broken bits that they get from clumsy staff/customers breaking things by accident. Some have a big tub of broken bits that you can rummage around in, but if they don't, try by asking them if you see some bits that you can get.

The absolutely BEST EVER way of cutting terracotta pots and such is an diamond wheel electric tile-cutter, the ones that look like a table-saw. They use water to cool the cutting blade and cuts nicely straight. Also great for cutting tiles and other stone/ceramic materials... The local DIY shops will have one for about Â£30/$60 or so.

--
Mats

Jackster · Post by **Jackster** » 24 Oct 2005, 16:18

I really think that the best tool for the job would be this.

HaHa!

MatsP · Post by **MatsP** » 24 Oct 2005, 16:39

jackster wrote:I really think that the best tool for the job would be this.

HaHa!

Nice! But no, that's the tool you need for cutting those big slate-pieces, but it's completley unsuitable for cutting finer things like flower pots or tiles. Remember: There's no such thing as too many power-tools, and if the ones you got can't do what you need to do, it's a very good reason to visit the DIY shop...

--
Mats

Jackster · Post by **Jackster** » 24 Oct 2005, 17:36

I have actually used a demo saw to cut some of my tubes, however, I used an abrasive
type blade not a diamond blade. I still stand by my 15 amp Milwaukee worm gear drive
(with an abrasive blade) as the most versatile tool for cutting stones, slate, flower pots,
or concrete tubes.

Cutting anything with my method can be dangerous, especially if what you are trying to cut is small.
If one does not have good power tool skills then I would recommend finding a friend that does.
Over the years many of my friends have come to me for some assistance with cutting various items
for their aquariums.

How do you think I got my nickname "The Jackster" ?
It's simple because I'm a "jack of all trades and a master of none".

drpleco · Post by **drpleco** » 28 Dec 2005, 17:41

UPDATE:

I used the carbide rod saw (finally), and it worked great. I cut two-4" pots in half in just a few minutes each. The advice about wetting them first was great, too. No dust, just a clay residue that was easily rinsed off. Thanks everyone!

Kana3 · Post by **Kana3** » 29 Dec 2005, 06:18

I'm more of an Angle-Grinder man myself.

But since you have a drill, you could chase up a Mandrel, this'll allow you to attach a concrete disk. Gloves and Goggles are a must tho'.

Being a farm boy, and having access to two family farms, I can access almost every tool under sun. However, becoming a recent city-dweller, it's worth noting what light industrial business' are about.

I've occasionally wandered into a workshop to have something cut or shaped. And following Mats' example - scrounging for left-overs. If you get the right guy it's swell, no worries, no charge.

And if you plan to make a habit of it, there's nothing better than a slab of beer to cement the relationship.

rfb · Post by **rfb** » 13 Jan 2006, 23:09

I am about to go out and get atile cutter for my dremel as I want to cut a opening at the bottom for my bristlenose.I will let you know how this works.

blueguava · Post by **blueguava** » 14 Jan 2006, 05:39

Local Hardware store (Bunnings) has a tile cutter mounted as a bench saw. Whole setup $89AUD ($70 USD) bargin! Goes through concrete and teracota pipes, tiles and pots like a hot knife through butter.

I only keep fish to support my Power Tool Habit

Kind Regards

Kana3 · Post by **Kana3** » 14 Jan 2006, 10:34

rfb - I think you may find the job a bit tough for your Dremel. I've found the Dremel Tile Bit is only good for cutting small shapes in wall tiles (tap holes, power holes, etc).

I admit I haven't tackled garden ceramics, but I couldn't scratch a floor tile with it. And after several large cuts of wall tiles, I burnt out my Dremel. Lucky for warrantees! Part of the problem is the fine ceramic dust it creates, gets sucked into the motor.

In the end, I went back to Angle-Grinding tiles with a masonry/concrete disk.

bronzefry · Post by **bronzefry** » 14 Jan 2006, 14:00

I burned out a Dremel trying to cut a flower pot in half. There's no clutch. The speed is ultra high, but it also gets ultra hot(at least the older models did).

troi · Post by **troi** » 14 Jan 2006, 17:48

pturley wrote:You can buy a carbide rod saw to fit your hacksaw frame. They work great in softer ceramics (IE: flowerpots and bisque tiles).

It looks like power tools are pretty well covered now, but how do you secure the pot while you saw/drill? I have this vision of chasing a rolling pot across the yard to the local college. Or cutting my hand off.

troi

blueguava · Post by **blueguava** » 14 Jan 2006, 21:28

I use sliding G clamps to hold pots and like K I use a angle grinder hacksaw would take you ages on a big hole. Using a hacksaw you will need to use a mansonary drill to make corners for your holes.

drpleco · Post by **drpleco** » 15 Jan 2006, 01:00

I just held it with my hands. The carbide rod saw wasn't that sharp and the hacksaw wasn't that fast. The combination made for a (relatively) safe enviornment. When I was 3/4 through the pot, I squeezed the end and it popped in half.

troi · Post by **troi** » 15 Jan 2006, 03:25

drgold wrote:I just held it with my hands. The carbide rod saw wasn't that sharp and the hacksaw wasn't that fast. The combination made for a (relatively) safe enviornment. When I was 3/4 through the pot, I squeezed the end and it popped in half.

Thanks to you both. I am reassured.

Love the goldie pix, drgold. sorta where I came to this fishy thing.

troi

rfb · Post by **rfb** » 28 Jan 2006, 16:50

I tried almost everything to cut those pots,I used my drill starting with small holes and progressing to bigger and I got two not bad ones.The frustration level though was well shall we say I banned my daughter from the shed when I cut them,so in an effort not to teach her the lingo of a sailor,I suggest this.How about a 4"pvc pipe stood vertically with the cap on.Or do oyou think that it has something to do with the clay pot that works,I have had one successfull spawn of my bristlenose so I wonder if that is the reason.Im going to try it and I will let you know.

Kana3 · Post by **Kana3** » 30 Jan 2006, 21:44

It sounds like you should have found yourself a local Bathroom Renovator, and asked for a favour.

I'm not sure if the material itself really matters. It's probaly more of a feeling of security that the structure provides. Look at it from the need to protect young from predators.

MatsP · Post by **MatsP** » 31 Jan 2006, 08:40

In my experience, bristlenoses aren't particularly picky about the material of their abode. PVC pipe with cap on will most likely work just fine.

--
Mats

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