avoid egg-fungus

Sid Guppy · Post by **Sid Guppy** » 28 Jan 2003, 23:39

Just a question for the more experienced Corydoras-breeders: what do you do or use to avoid the eggs from being destroyed by fungus?
-Chemicals, and wich one?
-snails, and wich species?
-nothing?
-removing bad eggs, and how? (tweezers? coctailsticks? etc)

Post by **Dinyar** » 28 Jan 2003, 23:47

I would not describee myself as an "experienced" Cory breeder, but 2-3 drops of methylene blue to maybe 1 liter of water has worked for me in the past.

Dinyar

Post by **Coryman** » 29 Jan 2003, 19:45

I use Methylene Blue when I have moved the eggs into hatching containers. Half recomended dose is usually OK. I then reduce the concentration over the 3-4 days by changing 50% of the water each day.

Ian

Sid Guppy · Post by **Sid Guppy** » 29 Jan 2003, 20:23

Any of you used acyiflavine, and perhaps can tell me the concentration? I've got the pure powder in a jar, and I know that one should use tiny amounts, but nothing more than that.....

i've got Hoplosternum 'X'- eggs & fry (try-out #3 so far); from try out #1 only 1 still lives, and try out #2 was one big failure....

And that fry doesn't eat microworms so far.
do you know when the fry begins to feed? one, two or three days (or even later) after hatching? I take it, they behave like corydoras fry; the outlook and size are similar to say; paleatus-fry.

Marshel · Post by **Marshel** » 08 Feb 2003, 04:30

Don't be afraid the concentration. 2-3 drops of the methylene blue is ok for your jar.

Just let the water look a little Cambridge blue.

Sid Guppy · Post by **Sid Guppy** » 08 Feb 2003, 12:08

Ehh, how blue's Cambridge??

Thanx!
The current nest has been eating well; but now they developed itch again;
One more try for the records....

AOS · Post by **AOS** » 09 Feb 2003, 18:44

Some say that a littlebit of salt helps. (a teaspoon every 50 L)

Also a normal pH and softwater helps (instead of hard water which is often also high in pH)

Achim · Post by **Achim** » 09 Feb 2003, 22:43

Hi,

i mostly use aldercones. The humidic acid ("Huminsäure" in german, i don't know if humidic acid is the right word...) lowers the pH slightly and humidic acids themselves act bactericide and lower the germination number ("keimzahl" in german, d*mn i need a scientific dictionary...) in general. Its mainly bacteria and protozoa that mortify eggs, fungy settle secondarily when the eggs are already dead or weakened.
Aldercones work for example well for C. gossei, C. concolor, C. cf. axelrodi. The concentration depends on the species. In case of C. concolor the water can be coloured deeply brown (that species originates from waters with low pH anyway), whereas C. gossei eggs die at such high concentrations. The water should only have the colour of tea in that case (The experience what concentraion is right comes with time...).
In case of long-snouted Corydoras (C. cervinus etc.) i dont use anything to prevent destruction by bakteria protozoa etc. though i made the experience that they are quite immune to that.
In case aldercones and doing nothing doesn't work i try lowering the pH and/or lowering conductivity (most Cory with sensitive eggs come from waters with low pH and/or low conductivity = low germination number).
If aldercones and adjusting water values don't work (or if im too lazy to adjust water values

i use Acriflavin.

Greetings... Achim

Bathos · Post by **Bathos** » 13 Feb 2003, 16:53

would peat have a similar affect?

Post by **Silurus** » 13 Feb 2003, 16:55

Yes, it would. Be careful not to let your pH get too low while using it, though.