Possibly ick or low slime coverage?

[Brophistopheles]

Hello, so I justed noticed my buddy hear having this weird cracky skin on their head. I just did a water change yesterday. Weekly just shy of 7gal water change for the 55 gal tank. Just did water quality texts. Ph8, ammonia 0-0.25ppm, nitrite 0ppm, Nitrate 40ppm. I have recently been adding a potassium supplement to help my plants in there along with aquarium co-op easy green about once a week. I'm working on the ph currently well water and all. Just added a pH down and will continue to monitor. The tank mates are albino rainbow shark, and 2 bosamni rainbow fish. Which don't have anything currently on them. I believe the catfish ate some of the pellets I put in I added some frozen blood worms to see if he would confirmed to eat today. What do you all think?

[Viktor Jarikov]

Welcome to the Planet!

It doesn't strike me as something worrisome. Some of our catfish also have their cranial shield bone look like that. If this was an abrupt change in the looks of yours, then this may warrant a closer observation.

IDK what adding potassium (in what form? chloride? sulfate?) would do, it depends on the dose.

IDK what aquarium co-op easy green is or does.

For me as a non-plant guy, the WC is too small but if you have a lot of efficient plants, then maybe it's ok.

NO3 is kinda high for a planted tank. May indeed warrant larger and more frequent WCs.

As the first advice on the pH, I'd strongly advise not to mess with the pH but only make sure it is stable at its natural value. Even if you do everything correct (which is not trivial), sooner or later one will slip up or make an error and wipe out the tank.

In a well run tank the ammonia reading by the API test tube test should be firmly at 0 at all times. Perhaps you have trouble reading it right. I'd recommend using a test tube of known ammonia free water (with the reagents added same as to the tank water) as a reference to compare colors, not the paper color chart.

If fish feed, this is a sign that there is nothing majorly wrong.

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Just did water quality texts. Ph8, ammonia 0-0.25ppm, nitrite 0ppm, Nitrate 40ppm. I have recently been adding a potassium supplement to help my plants in there along with aquarium co-op easy green about once a week.

Don't put too much reliance on the test kit results, both TAN ammonia (NH3 / NH4+) and nitrate (NO3-) are much more problematic to test for than most aquarium based literature acknowledges. I've got a bit of jaundiced view of the vendors of sale kits, but if your plants are in healthy growth they will very efficiently deplete nutrient levels.

What do your plants look like? You may be interested in the Duckweed Index is a simple technique to use plant growth as both nutrient monitor and nutrient reducer.

I'm working on the ph currently well water and all. Just added a pH down and will continue to monitor.

What @Viktor Jarikov says, the "pH down" won't really help.

cheers Darrel

[Viktor Jarikov]

...Don't put too much reliance on the test kit results, both TAN ammonia (NH3 / NH4+) and nitrate (NO3-) are much more problematic to test for than most aquarium based literature acknowledges. I've got a bit of jaundiced view of the vendors of sale kits...

Thank you Darrel for this. IDK if my memory is failing but I clearly remember your numerous great and helpful posts on the NO3- tests and yet I don't recall your beef with the API test tube TAN tests (and the likes). Could you link your writeup / post(s) on the TAN, please, if you had one?

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Thank you Darrel for this. IDK if my memory is failing but I clearly remember your numerous great and helpful posts on the NO3- tests and yet I don't recall your beef with the API test tube TAN tests (and the likes). Could you link your writeup / post(s) on the TAN, please, if you had one?

This one? <"https://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=254075">

The issue, with TAN ammonia (and nitrate (NO3-)) tests, is that you are dealing with soluble monovalent ions (or dissolved gas) and that means that there are a number of steps to go through before you get a non-soluble coloured compound that you can measure.

An ion selective electrode is probably your best bet (for ammonia and nitrate), you still need to acidify the water for the TAN test (so all the NH3 is converted to NH4+).

Nitrate (NO3-) needs to be reduced to nitrite (NO2-), traditionally cadmium (Cd) was used for this, but vanadium III (V) is normally used now. I don't seem to have posted anything specifically on PC so I'll link in a UKAPs thread. <"https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/few-problems-with-my-little-slice-of-nature.61970/page-2#post-611314">.

For planted tank keepers both the "Duckweed" (linked in my UKAPS signature) and "Estimative" Indices (EI by Tom Barr) were developed (entirely independently) partially because of the difficulties with accurate NO3- measurement.

cheers Darrel

[JabotLido]

Based on the information provided, it seems like you are taking good care of your aquarium and monitoring the water parameters regularly. Here are some insights and recommendations regarding the issues you described:

1. Cracky Skin on Fish:
- The cracky skin on your buddy's head can be indicative of a few possibilities:
- Possible Causes: It could be due to external injuries, such as scraping against tank decorations, rough surfaces, or aggression from tank mates. It could also be related to nutritional deficiencies or stress.
- Recommendations:
- Observe the affected fish closely for any signs of aggression from tank mates.
- Ensure a well-balanced diet for your fish and consider offering varied food options to meet their nutritional needs.
- Keep the water quality optimal, as you are already doing, as poor water conditions can stress fish and lead to skin issues.

2. Water Quality:
- Your water parameters seem relatively good, but there are a few considerations:
- pH: Adjusting pH can be tricky and sudden pH fluctuations can stress fish. Monitor the pH closely and make gradual adjustments if needed.
- Nitrate Level: Nitrates at 40ppm are on the higher side. Consider increasing the frequency or volume of water changes to reduce nitrates.
- Ammonia: Ensure that the ammonia levels remain low by maintaining efficient filtration and proper waste removal.

3. Potassium Supplement and Easy Green:geometry dash
- It's great that you are providing supplements for your plants. Ensure that the dosages are appropriate as excess nutrients can lead to imbalances in the aquarium ecosystem.

4. Fish Feeding:
- Observing the feeding behavior of your catfish is a good step. Offering a variety of foods, like frozen bloodworms, is beneficial to ensure a balanced diet.

5. Observation:
- Continue to closely monitor the affected fish for any changes in behavior, appetite, or skin condition.
- Keep an eye on interactions between tank mates, especially if aggression is suspected.

If the issue persists or worsens, it may be beneficial to consult with a local aquarium expert or a veterinarian specializing in aquatic animals for a more in-depth assessment and targeted treatment plan.