Algae Issues

[Shaddrag]

Hi everyone,

I have a few Synodontis in my 75g tank. Some of my plants have developed Hair Algae. I was hoping someone might know of an algae-eater that can thrive in 7.9pH 6KH that doesn't get too big for my setup.

[Shane]

http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... ne#p242676

-Shane

[Shaddrag]

Thanks Shane,
I'm not so bothered by the Hair Algae to change my lighting or bleach anything... I have a suspended 2x4 ledge that has attracted the algae and it has not gone anywhere else, my mid-level and top swimmers graze on the moss I have there. I was looking for a living solution Except, from the digging I have done, most algae-eaters prefer more neutral water than I have. However, if there are no algae-eaters in my water parameter range, I'll set up a small bleach kit then. Thanks for the info.

[racoll]

A

Common Bristlenose Catfish

will do just fine in your water, especially if it was a locally reared one.

[TwoTankAmin]

Look into the Siamese Algae Eater- Crossocheilus langei (often called Crossocheilus siamensis). They will even eat bba if you do not feed the tank. I have had juvenile ones try to eat the "hair algae" off of the back of my hands and forearms when working in the tank. FYI it tickles and they do not actually remove the hair. But they will remove a lot of algae.
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/cr ... us-langei/

Other sites indicate a pH of up to 8.0 is OK.

[rupertoooo]

Most fish will not eat hair algae depending on the type. Mollies will eat hair algae however again it depends on the type. If you prefer a nicer looking fish try the Ameca Splendens however it will be more difficult to procure. Ghost Shrimp will also eat certain types of hair algae.

Usually you can control these issues by maintaining pristine water quality. Water changes are crucial even in low tech. tanks, imo. What is your water change schedule? How often and how much? What is the stock of the tank? What is the light output and how many hours?

[AnfibioRana]

I would add to the filter media an adequate amount of fermented barley straw.
It works well against algae, without any harm to plants and fish.
You'll love it!

[JamesFish]

My 2p worth.

To my knowledge a BN will not eat hair algae. I do however know amano shrimp eat it along with helping keep things clean. They wont breed unless you use salt for part of the year. here is a link http://www.theshrimpfarm.com/amano-shrimp.php They seem to be happy in my tanks. They get about 2-3 inches long but are pretty touch can put up with some grief. Seen them beat off a small clown loach out of his house and defend themselves happily from my 3 chain loaches.

You could also try a (if this is spelt right be shocked) siamensis but they do tend to kill their own as get older. They are big boys as well so may not suit. http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_sae.php - These are what I think someone was mentioning earlier.

I'm about to try a single balloon molly to help control some bba in mine. Give it a few weeks and can let you know how upping my shrimp and a molly works.

[TwoTankAmin]

I have kept "SAEs" in various tanks for over a dozen years. I have never known them to kill each other. Also, they seem to max out at just under 6 inches (150 mm).

A 75 gal. tank is more than adequate to house a few SAEs.

[racoll]

This all depends on how much hair algae you already have. If you just have a little, a bristlenose will graze the surfaces of the tank and stop any more from growing.

If you have a lot, then as the other contributors have suggested, you may want to try a different approach. It's worth noting also that if you have a LOT of algae, it means there is something fundamentally wrong with how your aquarium is running (usually too much light).

As always, a picture speaks a thousand words ...

[Shaddrag]

Usually you can control these issues by maintaining pristine water quality. Water changes are crucial even in low tech. tanks, imo. What is your water change schedule? How often and how much? What is the stock of the tank? What is the light output and how many hours?

So, let me answer some of the questions brought up so far.

Tank Stocking: 6 Black Lyretail Mollies (and 3 fry I was able to save!) 4 Swordtails, 2 Angels (not fully grown, not particularly a good water match, but they are hanging in like champs), 2 Guppies (my wife got them for her little 10g and they out ate her shrimp), and then my 2 Synodontis (still waiting on LFS to get my Syn. Sp Hybrid 3).

The algae is only on my Fire Moss which is on a 2x4 inch suspended ledge (got the moss for the Mollies to munch on) Also, the ledge is rather high in the tank, so more light penetration and so on. It has not spread to the tank walls, or any of the plants at the bottom of the tank. So, I think the algae might be self contained, but I do intend to add additional moss on ledges (helps with fry and additional grazing buffets are always nice right)

Tank lighting is a 48" eLive LED bar, on for more hours than it probably should be. I turn the lights on in the morning before work (I like to watch my aquarium while I have breakfast, and my synos come out for a bit after the lights are on) And, I secure the lights sometime in the evening (I really should set up a scheduled time to turn them off)

Water maintenance and condition - 10g water changes every 7 days. Running at 0ppm NH3/NH4, 0ppm NO2/NO3, 7.9 pH, 5 KH (last checks) 78F temp

Also, thanks everyone for being so helpful!

[Shaddrag]

Images as requested

The moss ledge with the hair algae

The elevation of the ledge

[racoll]

Geez, was expecting a bit more than that. Okay, it looks like what people call "black brush algae" rather than "hair algae". See here for the common names for the algae types.

So, an

Ancistrus

will not take care of that. A Crossocheilus will, but it was eat your moss in the process, kind of defeating the point.

My advice is just to move the ledge into a much shadier position, as moss needs very little light.

[Shaddrag]

Upon closer inspection, I do have a little bit of the brown stuff on some of the tank glass... I'll give it a good scrub when I do my tank cleaning this weekend. But, I was more pointing to the white hair follicles on the moss itself.

[Shaddrag]

Upon closer inspection, I do have a little bit of the brown stuff on some of the tank glass... I'll give it a good scrub when I do my tank cleaning this weekend. But, I was more pointing to the white hair follicles on the moss itself.

But thanks a bunch for the link. I think I may have Fuzz Algae...

[rupertoooo]

Nah nothing to be too concerned about at least at this time. Its all about finding the corrective measure which will be the least disruptive to the tank in general as well as the safest way to destroy the algae. Definitely start with Racoll's recommendation by relocating the moss in addition cut back as much of the algae as possible. If you are still having issues I would reduce your daily lighting. This can easily be achieved by adding a timer, which can be had for $5 at your local home improvement store. There is a lot more to keeping plants thriving than these simple sentence to paragraph long replys so please keep this in mind when you are performing any corrective measure.

You stated that your nitrates were reading 0ppm. I would recommend checking this reading again and make sure your test kit has not expired. If you are using the API test kit it is extremely important to follow the exact directions. You should have some nitrates in your water.

Another personal recommendation would be to increase your water change volume. Fish LOVE big water changes and its beneficial to the overall health of the tank but remember to treat your water accordingly. Even though you have a rather low bio load I would start by performing a %50 water change every two weeks.

[Shaddrag]

So, I have been testing for Nitrates incorrectly with my API set (so I bought a new NO3 kit) Thanks for making me double check my process.

My Nitrates are currently 40ppm, and my weekly water change is tomorrow.

[Aquaticus]

Crossocheilus reticulatus would be a good option. There is a nice article here: http://www.reef2rainforest.com/2015/02/ ... -thailand/. They do a great job of keeping down hair algae.

[Shaddrag]

Crossocheilus reticulatus would be a good option. There is a nice article here: http://www.reef2rainforest.com/2015/02/ ... -thailand/. They do a great job of keeping down hair algae.

Those are pretty neat, they fit the darker fish color theme I have going on as well

[Marine590622]

Jordanella floridae if you don't have any big meat eaters in the tank.

instead of a bleach solution I recommend hitting the algae with h202. It will quickly oxidize down to h2o and not affect your water qaulity. Most higher order plants can handle exposure to it and most algae will break down turning yellow, pink or brown ancistrus will eat the algae two to three days after you have hit it with the peroxide. The other advantage to using the peroxide is you can use a turkey baster and treat the algae in the tank instead of removing the plants to dip them in a bucket.

[Shaddrag]

I have ordered 2 Reticulated Flying Foxes from my LFS. I should have them next week. It'll be nice to have a general algae clean-up crew anyways. If I run out of algae growing in the tank, I'll just feed them some wafers.