L46
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L46
Hi,
Bought a 2 inch L46 a couple of 4 days ago. It looked very healthy, good fins, stomach not sunken.
It's now quarantined (alone) in a 10 gallon tank with some drift wood.
Since I got it, it had not touch the food I threw in (frozen bloodworm, wafers).
Started to get a little concern since I lost my last Zebra after it refused to eat for 2 weeks.
Anyone has any idea how to get it to eat?
Thanks
Bought a 2 inch L46 a couple of 4 days ago. It looked very healthy, good fins, stomach not sunken.
It's now quarantined (alone) in a 10 gallon tank with some drift wood.
Since I got it, it had not touch the food I threw in (frozen bloodworm, wafers).
Started to get a little concern since I lost my last Zebra after it refused to eat for 2 weeks.
Anyone has any idea how to get it to eat?
Thanks
- Barbie
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What are your water parameters? How warm, pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels... Was the tank properly cycled?
I had good luck getting new zebras to eat by increasing the circulation in the tank, turning the venturi for the powerheads on so that they were increasing the oxygenation, and warming them up to 84-85 degrees F. I did daily 30% water changes to keep the water optimal, and fed live blackworms, or frozen. Just a few at a time. The fact that you aren't seeing them eat doesn't always mean they aren't.
Barbie
I had good luck getting new zebras to eat by increasing the circulation in the tank, turning the venturi for the powerheads on so that they were increasing the oxygenation, and warming them up to 84-85 degrees F. I did daily 30% water changes to keep the water optimal, and fed live blackworms, or frozen. Just a few at a time. The fact that you aren't seeing them eat doesn't always mean they aren't.
Barbie
- doctorzeb
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Barbi has hit the nail on the top of the head.
High circulation, and slighlty increased temperatures. Is he constantly sticking to the side of the tank? If so, try and get the mixed sera-nip. It is a tablet like food that sticks to the side of the glass. Put it just beside his head so that the flow takes food over him. The tablet breaks up into a kind of powder and he will automatically digest it as is flow over him.
Try a good varying died, but as barbie stated, a 30% water change each day to stop the water getting polluted from overfeeding, (prepare the water the day before in a bucket and leave it sitting).
One of the most common reasons for Zebras dying just after import is refusal to eat, they don't seem to acclimatise to captivity that easily.
Other good foods are bloodworms,(live or frozen), tetra prima, crushed frozen peas, and a small slice of corgette (zucchini).
good luck
rob
High circulation, and slighlty increased temperatures. Is he constantly sticking to the side of the tank? If so, try and get the mixed sera-nip. It is a tablet like food that sticks to the side of the glass. Put it just beside his head so that the flow takes food over him. The tablet breaks up into a kind of powder and he will automatically digest it as is flow over him.
Try a good varying died, but as barbie stated, a 30% water change each day to stop the water getting polluted from overfeeding, (prepare the water the day before in a bucket and leave it sitting).
One of the most common reasons for Zebras dying just after import is refusal to eat, they don't seem to acclimatise to captivity that easily.
Other good foods are bloodworms,(live or frozen), tetra prima, crushed frozen peas, and a small slice of corgette (zucchini).
good luck
rob
My wife made the mistake of buying me a 2 ft tank and it grew to 7ft.
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The tank temperature is about 77 F, don't have the readings for the rest though.
I've been changing about 10%-20% of the water everyday.
I knew it didn't touch the food cos the 2-3 bloodworms (and the little wafer) I threw in every nite remained untouch the next morning.
It was hiding between 2 pieces of driftwood whenever I looked at it.
I think I'll try to work on the water current and raise the temperature.
Thanks
I've been changing about 10%-20% of the water everyday.
I knew it didn't touch the food cos the 2-3 bloodworms (and the little wafer) I threw in every nite remained untouch the next morning.
It was hiding between 2 pieces of driftwood whenever I looked at it.
I think I'll try to work on the water current and raise the temperature.
Thanks
- Yann
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HI!
You can try raise a bit the T° to 80F°
Try not to change water too much at first, let him settle in first... Try to give him a place to hide where he can feel secure, like a little cave.
Do you have sand on the bottom.
Feed him during dark when the light are out. And try to place a little bit of food where he is resting it also will be great if it is in a place hidden with a few stuff in front and not directly with open sand in front. Also try to feed him just before you go to bed... there will be less agitation in front of the tank.
Don't be afraid to touch the food and not only throw it in, he won't bite I promise....
Cheers
Yann
You can try raise a bit the T° to 80F°
Try not to change water too much at first, let him settle in first... Try to give him a place to hide where he can feel secure, like a little cave.
Do you have sand on the bottom.
Feed him during dark when the light are out. And try to place a little bit of food where he is resting it also will be great if it is in a place hidden with a few stuff in front and not directly with open sand in front. Also try to feed him just before you go to bed... there will be less agitation in front of the tank.
Don't be afraid to touch the food and not only throw it in, he won't bite I promise....
Cheers
Yann
Don't Give Up, Don't Ever Give Up!
- Walter
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Hi,
maybe a little hope for you:
I haven´t seen my six zebraplecos eating one time within a whole year.
I got them as babies with about 2 cm length. Temporary I thought, some of them have starved oder are died from other reasons, because I always only recognized two or three specimen (or the caudalfin of them ;) ).
But, what a surprise, some weeks ago I saw all 6 specimen. They still live, have grown up to about 5 cm and still do not eat the food I give them ;)
BTW: strong current is not that important for them as often said. Big content of oxygene is what they need, current takes care of this, but also an airstone or many plants or an oxydator...
If there is a strong current in your tank, many plecos will hide nearly all the time in parts with low current, caves, below roots, ...
maybe a little hope for you:
I haven´t seen my six zebraplecos eating one time within a whole year.
I got them as babies with about 2 cm length. Temporary I thought, some of them have starved oder are died from other reasons, because I always only recognized two or three specimen (or the caudalfin of them ;) ).
But, what a surprise, some weeks ago I saw all 6 specimen. They still live, have grown up to about 5 cm and still do not eat the food I give them ;)
BTW: strong current is not that important for them as often said. Big content of oxygene is what they need, current takes care of this, but also an airstone or many plants or an oxydator...
If there is a strong current in your tank, many plecos will hide nearly all the time in parts with low current, caves, below roots, ...
- ClayT101
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Cool avitar Walter . You may want to change it so that the background is clear. It can be done in photoshop.
As for zebras, when I used to keep them, I found the younger ones were more likely to eat while you watched. The older ones preferred to hide and wait until I left. I had the most luck feeding frozen bloodworms. I would put it near the enterances of their caves and would temporarily turn the current off.
As for zebras, when I used to keep them, I found the younger ones were more likely to eat while you watched. The older ones preferred to hide and wait until I left. I had the most luck feeding frozen bloodworms. I would put it near the enterances of their caves and would temporarily turn the current off.
- Barbie
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Plants will actually be uptaking oxygen after dark, along with the fish, so using them as the sole source of increased oxygen might not be the healthiest alternative, IME. I've kept zebras in a variety of conditions over the years, and recently added 6 more to my collection. Maybe if I can get them spawning, I'll feel like I have found the ideal "method" of keeping them. For now, they seem to adapt to most parameters, as long as they can do it slowly, and are kept feeding.
My older zebras that I've owned for 3 years or so, are quite active at feeding time, in a tank with pretty thorough circulation and filtration and many rocks and pieces of driftwood for them and the 8 L260 they are stuck residing with until their new home gets here on Tuesday. They are the first fish I've owned that seem to be happier in a tank on the floor, than they are in tanks up at eye level.
Discus don't do well at all in tanks where they can see feet, IME, yet the zebras seem to be more active and rambunctious there. Maybe someday someone will research as to why that is, but I'd assume its because they aren't in fear of predators from below that way. Maybe I'll see if I can't get the new stand built with the bottom shelf that low, instead of the regular 6 inches off the floor. Thank god for floor drains!
Barbie
My older zebras that I've owned for 3 years or so, are quite active at feeding time, in a tank with pretty thorough circulation and filtration and many rocks and pieces of driftwood for them and the 8 L260 they are stuck residing with until their new home gets here on Tuesday. They are the first fish I've owned that seem to be happier in a tank on the floor, than they are in tanks up at eye level.
Discus don't do well at all in tanks where they can see feet, IME, yet the zebras seem to be more active and rambunctious there. Maybe someday someone will research as to why that is, but I'd assume its because they aren't in fear of predators from below that way. Maybe I'll see if I can't get the new stand built with the bottom shelf that low, instead of the regular 6 inches off the floor. Thank god for floor drains!
Barbie
- Yann
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