What are the conditions for L-177 to thrive?
What are the conditions for L-177 to thrive?
I just lost my last 2 L-177s. I like them a lot and would like to keep them but I can't seem to make them thrive.
I had the last 2 in a tank with plenty of driftwood. I fed live blackworms, frozen bloodworms, brineshrimp, algaewafers, Aquadine flake, zuccini, shrimp ,etc.
They never seem to get going and eat a lot, just kindof wither away.
Conditions in the tank are: 82 degrees, GH 9, PH7.5 , NH3/4 - 0, NO2 - 0 and NO3 - 0.
I even added some metronidazole to make sure there was no stomach parasites. The last two days they were hanging on the glass close to the surface but otherwise they were active and swimming well. I can't say I saw them feed aggressivley but their stomachs were not sunken in. My L-18/85 are doing great but I like the larger spots of the L-177 better I just need to find out how to get them to survive.
I had the last 2 in a tank with plenty of driftwood. I fed live blackworms, frozen bloodworms, brineshrimp, algaewafers, Aquadine flake, zuccini, shrimp ,etc.
They never seem to get going and eat a lot, just kindof wither away.
Conditions in the tank are: 82 degrees, GH 9, PH7.5 , NH3/4 - 0, NO2 - 0 and NO3 - 0.
I even added some metronidazole to make sure there was no stomach parasites. The last two days they were hanging on the glass close to the surface but otherwise they were active and swimming well. I can't say I saw them feed aggressivley but their stomachs were not sunken in. My L-18/85 are doing great but I like the larger spots of the L-177 better I just need to find out how to get them to survive.
- Barbie
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Barbie,
I test with Aquarium Pharmacuticals test kit which doesn't really start to register well until the 20-30 range (IMO) - the only tanks I get readable nitrates 20-40 range (at wich point I do large waterchanges) are the large CA cichlid tanks that get fed a lot.
All smaller tanks get vaccumed on a daily or every other day basis. They also get 2 good waterchanges a week. I think the testing is relativley accurate but if you would like I can take the lowrange Saliferts and check it. I use that test for my planted tank and anytime I want more precise results .
Does that seem about right or am I off?
I have noticed that the L-177 are very sensative to poor waterquality and need almost daily waterchanges or they hang at the surface, they are also not very big eaters.
This being said , I have a feeling that it is part of the problem. Generally when I have bought them or seen them they have sunken bellies and often ick.
When bringing them home it is a challange to not feed the first couple of days and then lightly as they look so starved.
I have tried to fatten them up with a hight protein diet of several varieties but I do notice a lot of uneaten food that gets vaccumed up.
I do a formalin dip on fish that are wildcaught , metro if they are looking starved and a variety of foods along with driftwood. Mature filter/tank a few plants and plenty of waterchanges but I still can't seem to succeed.
Polkadot,
the last one I got was about 3-4" which is about the biggest I have seen for sale.
I generally have much better sucess with smaller fish.
I test with Aquarium Pharmacuticals test kit which doesn't really start to register well until the 20-30 range (IMO) - the only tanks I get readable nitrates 20-40 range (at wich point I do large waterchanges) are the large CA cichlid tanks that get fed a lot.
All smaller tanks get vaccumed on a daily or every other day basis. They also get 2 good waterchanges a week. I think the testing is relativley accurate but if you would like I can take the lowrange Saliferts and check it. I use that test for my planted tank and anytime I want more precise results .
Does that seem about right or am I off?
I have noticed that the L-177 are very sensative to poor waterquality and need almost daily waterchanges or they hang at the surface, they are also not very big eaters.
This being said , I have a feeling that it is part of the problem. Generally when I have bought them or seen them they have sunken bellies and often ick.
When bringing them home it is a challange to not feed the first couple of days and then lightly as they look so starved.
I have tried to fatten them up with a hight protein diet of several varieties but I do notice a lot of uneaten food that gets vaccumed up.
I do a formalin dip on fish that are wildcaught , metro if they are looking starved and a variety of foods along with driftwood. Mature filter/tank a few plants and plenty of waterchanges but I still can't seem to succeed.
Polkadot,
the last one I got was about 3-4" which is about the biggest I have seen for sale.
I generally have much better sucess with smaller fish.
- flyinmike
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 20 Sep 2003, 03:57
- Location 1: Ft. Worth, TX USA
- Interests: Plecos, plecos, and more plecos
L-177
I'm no expert, but my L-177 is very healthy and growing. I've had him for 8 months now and he's gone from 2" to about3.5".
http://www.corydorasworld.com/planetcat ... oldnugget2
My tank parameters are as follows: pH 6.4, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 Negligible (lots of plants and routine water changes), KH 40ppm, GH 100ppm, temp 82*F.
http://www.corydorasworld.com/planetcat ... oldnugget2
My tank parameters are as follows: pH 6.4, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 Negligible (lots of plants and routine water changes), KH 40ppm, GH 100ppm, temp 82*F.
Plecos are the true centerpieces of any aquarium. Everything else just swims around them!!
27 members of Loricariidae, 12 different species.
27 members of Loricariidae, 12 different species.
Certainly, try the bigger ones. They are more resilient. I don't know if this will help but from my experience I use a lot of current with oxygen via the powerheads venturri devices pointed directly into my driftwood snag. I've noticed they've enjoyed hanging directly unto the current. It maybe the current or the air bubbles or both that they are interested in.
Don't get me wrong. I have had my share of dead gold nuggets (L177s). Yes, it seems like the larger you get them, the stronger they are.
Regards,
Mike D.
Don't get me wrong. I have had my share of dead gold nuggets (L177s). Yes, it seems like the larger you get them, the stronger they are.
Regards,
Mike D.
Thanks everyone.
flyinmike,
from the looks of your tank it seems that a planted environment is a good one for the plecos - interesting, I will try that.
BTW , how do you keep the PH at 6.4? Do you use CO2 injection?
Very nice tank and fish the L-177 looks nice and fat not like the ones I have seen.
mokmu,
I don't see the L-177s around much and if I do it is generally weak looking skinny small fish. As I mentioned the 3+" one I had recently was the biggest one I have seen for sale.
I will try hooking up a tube to the venturi on the powerhead and aiming it - thanks for the tip.
flyinmike,
from the looks of your tank it seems that a planted environment is a good one for the plecos - interesting, I will try that.
BTW , how do you keep the PH at 6.4? Do you use CO2 injection?
Very nice tank and fish the L-177 looks nice and fat not like the ones I have seen.
mokmu,
I don't see the L-177s around much and if I do it is generally weak looking skinny small fish. As I mentioned the 3+" one I had recently was the biggest one I have seen for sale.
I will try hooking up a tube to the venturi on the powerhead and aiming it - thanks for the tip.
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- flyinmike
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 20 Sep 2003, 03:57
- Location 1: Ft. Worth, TX USA
- Interests: Plecos, plecos, and more plecos
INXS wrote:Thanks everyone.
flyinmike,
from the looks of your tank it seems that a planted environment is a good one for the pl*cos - interesting, I will try that.
BTW , how do you keep the PH at 6.4? Do you use CO2 injection?
Very nice tank and fish the L-177 looks nice and fat not like the ones I have seen.
I start by using R/O water. It has a KH of 0 and an average pH of 5.8 to 6.0.
I then add appoximately 1/16 of a teaspoon of baking soda per 5 gallons. This raises the KH up to around 35 ppm which in turn naturally buffers the pH up to 6.4. By using the KH to raise the pH it will actually stay there and not keep trying to revert.
I also add Tetra Blackwater extract and Tetra FloraPride. No CO 2 here. The fish make enough of that for me.
Plecos are the true centerpieces of any aquarium. Everything else just swims around them!!
27 members of Loricariidae, 12 different species.
27 members of Loricariidae, 12 different species.
- flyinmike
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 20 Sep 2003, 03:57
- Location 1: Ft. Worth, TX USA
- Interests: Plecos, plecos, and more plecos
I have a 48" Allglass brand twin tube flourescent with 1 40w gro-lite bulb & 1 40w cool white bulb and it gets some indirect sunlight (but not a lot).INXS wrote:flyinmike,
what type of lighting do you have on that tank? (colortemp, type of light and w/g)
Thanks
Plecos are the true centerpieces of any aquarium. Everything else just swims around them!!
27 members of Loricariidae, 12 different species.
27 members of Loricariidae, 12 different species.