Thank you so so so so much Andywoollloo!!!
What a pleasure to come and find my Gurus celebrating for us! Exciting and makes us feel good about what we've so finally done. Googols to all of you for your patient patience.
RE: Ammonia 0.25 & Hold.
Oh. I didn't know this, thank you for telling me. I found it there this morning and FahReaked. I'm used to trying to maintain"zero" in the 10G and that number (0.25) was my bane. I killed it! Should I have left it that way? It affects them, Nui far more than Li'i. He becomes lethargic, breathing becomes a bit labored, eyes a little droopy. Not good. When I get it cleared he's a healthy active vibrant fish. But if he'll make it through this level of Am for this period of time okay... "fine" would be even better, we'll be able to do it.
So, does the Ammonia need to stay at 0.25 for a duration of time? If so is there a guess as to that framework/timeframe? Also, can I down the pH? No one has explained why Ammonia becomes so much more toxic when the pH goes above 7.0. I read the statement a few places but not the how. I guess I'm most interested in "how much". How much more dangerous is Ammonia when your pH is above 7.0. Because their's is running 7.4/7.8 in the 55G. I would like to understand it... that is if you have the time.
Regarding bringing the pH down. I think I mentioned someplace in the thread that I got a bottle of pH Down. And it was someone here that recommended I pick it up on one of my trips out to town. I did. If the ammonia is up and running at around 0.25ppm for some duration of time, I'd like to know if there's agreement on using it. (the pH Down). In my mind this is a positive way to use it... (here I go promoting the chemicals I promised never to use gadz) IF it would keep them from suffering the affects of high ammonia levels. Tonight for example the pH is at 7.8. I haven't done all the parameters yet so don't know about the others. But if the ammonia is up but not above 0.25, should I bring down the pH instead of doing a water change to adjust the ammonia?
Is this called buffering?
BTW: For some reason this tank is running up at 7.8. It's strange, the water in the other tank never went above 7.6 (the tap level) and then it would decrease as the hours passed. – I don't know why it went up. It was at 7.4 at midnight last.
andywoolloo wrote: Test the water for A and NI every day and do partial water changes accordingly. Till it tests at or below 0.25ppm for the A and NI.
Okay... thanks again! I've actually been testing 2 - 3 x a day... I want to do them, doing morning and evening tests will allow my mind and heart to relax. Unless I need to work a water change. Regarding these "partial" water changes. What percentage would I need to change? I've been doing 50%-75% changes to keep things going well in the 10G. But now in the 55 things are much different and pretty much foreign to me. As an example, if the results put the Am's around 35%; how much of a water change would I need to do? Should I bring it all the way to zero or just down to at least or below 0.25ppm?
Just so I'm clear,
I leave the Am and Ni at 0.25ppm but do a water change if it rises above this. After a bit, it will decrease and become zero with Na's happening healthy. At this point our cycle is alive and well. Is that correct?
andywoolloo wrote:Remember to keep the water going in as close to same temp as water already in tank and remember your dechlorinator. They have a heater right? I seem to remember you saying the heating of the water was a prob?
Temperature and heating... we've come a long way in such a short time from ziplock bags at 3 a.m. to electric heating. Yeah... but it broke. The first one. It's a Fluval Tronic 150w. The thermostat and/or automatic shut off are broken, neither works. I can have it on 65 and the water will be 82°/84° ƒ within 20-30 minutes! I was planning on using it on the 40G. Anyway, I have to contact Hagen(?) as it's a lifetime warrantee and should be covered.
The 55G has a new Hydor 300w that's working fine. I'm glad you brought this up though as I have a problem. I'm afraid to put the entire heater in the water even though it says that's the way to do it. I can't seem to get my mind and courage around putting the dial, and wire, into, the water. But what freaked/freaks me out most regarding these is the instructions on the back where it says: CAUTION !!! Make sure you unplug the heater before putting your hand in the water. And... wouldn't the fish be exhibiting signs of electrocution if the need to unplug was actual.
But yes... I will keep the temp balanced. It's been warm. We were lucky during the move as the water in both tanks, tho' polar is size, were the same – about 79°ƒ. And it's been there ever since. The Hydor Theo's working well.
andywoolloo wrote:Once you test 0.00 for A and NI and just have NA you're there. Keep the NA low thru partial water changes weekly or bi weekly and you 'll be good.
Do you understand the nitrogen cycle in the fish tank? first you 'll get A then NI and A then finally no A and just NI and some NA then finally no NI and just NA. then you watch your NA only.
I do now... since you explained it this way. Thank you so very much Andy. These are the numbers I was having with the 10G ( I was reporting them) with Na's at about a constant 20 when it came down finally. I didn't think I had a cycle at all and of course no one said "hey, you've got a cycle happening". I thought everything was all messed up because of the numbers going off all the time.
Towards the 10G end, this past week only, I was having to do at least three water changes a day (2 lg & 1 sm usually). I couldn't figure out why. I had a couple ideas since though, I don't know if they matter except that it helps me (and maybe others) to understand better (
well, me). One thing is I'd left my filter unserviced for at least three weeks. I wasn't expecting
me to take that long. I was hoping it be as full of beneficial bacteria as possible. If that's not how it works it's just indicative of my
dimnitity. I don't think I understand the filter fully yet. Another thing possibly contributing to our problem I just found last evening when moving Li'i... her tree cave!
The little tree was full of poop, algae wafer, unknown bits and transparent gunk. No wonder she moved out this month. She's been sleeping in the cavern under Nui's hiding rock. The only time the tree had been cleaned was by Scott during the rescue. I've moved it to vac under it
daily but have never swished, turned or thought of things being inside it. I moved it slowly so as not to disturb them. In such a little place any bump with my hand inside would cause them, especially Nui to flipflashtwirl at the speed of light. And stir everything up! So, b ecause it has a bottom hole as well, I figured (I guess) that whatever she'd pulled into it would fall out . And it did, there was always a good amount of waste there. Last night was quite different though. I really swished and dunked that tree in the 10G and man o man! was it full. (yuckgagikuckgadzuagh (((shiver))))
And I discovered, Li'i is a hamster. I knew she'd been dragging wafers across the tank to her cave. How dim could I be?
(no answers please. Jools?)
Andywoolloo wrote:A liquid drop test kit will be your best friend, and a bucket. and a python if you can get one.
I want to get a python when I can afford it. I find them on Ebay sometimes for around $20/25 which I think is a good price. Amazon has them at around $50 I think. And if they're used...? Is buying used equipment bad? I'm thinking about other fish having diseases and fungus' etc. Can it be transferred to your tank with that sort of thing going on on the other end or its recent history?
Thanks a Googols Andy for such an informative response, what a nice celebration gift. We appreciate it.
GF