River tank manifold???

[Buddy09]

For those of you familiar with this type setup, I'm planning it for my next tank and I have a question....If you've done it, how did you secure the PVC along the tank bottom so that it won't vibrate and/or work it's way up through the gravel over time?? Plumbing vibrates, this I know from experience and if I just lay the pipe across the tank bottom my concern is that it will transfer that vibraton and noise to the tank itself and be annoying, to both me and the fish. Also, I have read that some folks having done this eventually had the pipes work their way up through the gravel and that it was very difficult to get them back down again in a working tank. Anybody have experience with this?? I'm sure I could come up with some monkey-rig, but if somebody has already figured it out it would be helpful.

[Bas Pels]

Good questions. I'm quite certain, I would have forgotten these issues

However, if I had thought about it, I would have used some blue mats under the PVC to insulate the vibration, and a few rock on the PVC to keep it down

If you are certain the whole will be used in the tank for years, obviously you can drill a few pieces of glass properly, and glue these into the tank

[Buddy09]

Hello Bas. Yes, I'm sure I'll want to keep this configuration for the foreseeable future....I've monkey-rigged it already on existing tanks, just to try the concept and I liked it. I had the plumbing running over the tank in a temporary fashion, which looked awful and vibrated if I didn't cushion it...BUT it proved the concept for me....now I want to do it properly, from scratch. Yes, I was thinking about some foam cushioning to keep it quiet. Also thought about drilling some glass pieces which would be siliconed to the tank bottom to run the plumbing through....so I guess you and I are on the same page!!....Just wondering if anyone had done it differently and with success.

[MatsP]

I presume the reason you have vibration in the plumbing is that the plumbing is attached to a power-head. If you connect the plumbing via a relatively soft hose, you will transfer much less of the vibrations to the plumbing, which may help a fair bit.

Otherwise, I agree with the principles - attach firmly or weigh down.

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Mats

[Buddy09]

Yes, the plumbing will be attached to a Mag 9.5 pump, 900+ GPH and yes it does vibrate, unfortunately...I guess most pumps do. Guess I'll cushion both the pump and the plumbing and probably run the pipes thru some drilled/siliconed glass as Bas suggested. Should be able to hide all that with gravel and creative rockwork. I will test whatever I come up with prior to dumping in gravel, rocks and fish, so if it doesn't work I'm not stuck with it...just drain the water and try sumthin else. Tank is a 125USG FYI

[Shane]

Click on the "My Aquaria" link under my name to see one I built. I never had vibration problems. My issue was temps. The pumps took the temps way over what I was comfortable with. The "manifold" I built sits in a bag in my fishroom.
-Shane

[Buddy09]

I know some people have heat problems with submersable pumps, but I never have, most likely because I run my tanks with open tops. I do lose a lot thru evaporation that way, and doubtless some heat as well, but I like the look. I figure the heat from the pumps just makes up for what I'd be losing thru the open top anyway and means my heaters come on less, saving me a buck or two on electric. The fish don't jump out because I have oak 1x6 "fences" across the back and ends with glass fences at the front. Might sound odd, but it actually looks nice and I rest my lighting on top of the oak fences as well, keeping it a few inches above the water.....Everybody has their own style. That's what makes this hobby fun and interesting.

[Shane]

I know some people have heat problems with submersable pumps, but I never have, most likely because I run my tanks with open tops.

I think it more likely because you live around 38 minutes of latitude (6,560 miles from the equator) and I live at 19 seconds latitude (36 miles from the equator). I'll be interested to see if you have heat problems come summer in the northern hemisphere. If you are keeping hillstream fishes I think you will have a problem keeping a temp down.
The ultimate solution might be the new pumps that actually have the motor outside the aquarium.
-Shane

[Buddy09]

Point taken Shane. I'm quite sure that Uganda is a heck of a lot warmer (hotter) than Maryland, at least most of the year. It often gets into the 90's here in summer, but I live on wooded property and the house is in heavy shade, so it rarely gets much above the upper 70's inside, even without AC...I'm fortunate with that....Once the house temps approach tank temps you may be right in that tank heat will become a problem...hasn't yet, but then I haven't run a 90 watt pump internally yet either, so we will see....Truth is, I am hoping to get the tank drilled from the LFS before I do any of this. ...Don't trust myself to drill a new, expensive tank, although many people say it's not difficult if you go slow and carefully.....If that's the case, then I will plumb the pump externally, thereby eliminating the whole of my issues here.....I've only posted this "problem" in the event that they won't drill the tank the way I want it and I have to go with an internal pump....I like to have plan B ready:)

[Shane]

I am with you on the tank drilling. Several PVAS folks like Dave Snell and Don Kinyon have explained the process to me but I am still not brave enough to try it. Realize that if I break a tank I had shipped to Uganda it can never be replaced.

I would still look at some combination of manifold (for true recirculation) and powerheads with external motors for added current and aeration. My manifold system was brilliantly planned (I thought) until it settled at 86F and I realized it was way too warm for what I wanted to keep in it (Chaetostoma).
-Shane

[Buddy09]

Being where I am, only miles from Washington DC and Baltimore, two large cities, I can easily get about any tank I want (and can afford). I forget that not everyone on these sites is as fortunate. Just about anything else is readily available to us online, but I'm betting tanks are a pain and expensive to have shipped in. Sorry man..... Yeah, I have the end result in my head, a river tank setup, high flow, 20x or more, end to end. I'm going with sump filtration to keep hardware out of sight and to help with my daily evaporation losses. Sump return will be via an enclosed pond type waterfall across one end dumping 1200gph+ into the tank adding significant current and aeration. The second pump, the subject of this thread, will initially be a Mag 9.5, 900+ gph, simply because I already have it and combined with my sump return will get me up to the flow rates I want. I'll also be running my existing Rena xp3 in parallel with the sump as additional filtration and backup in the event the sump pump goes down. I'm building the stand myself to accomodate the tank, sump and waterfall feature. It's all in my head, just trying to sort out the finer points before I start building things....Much appreciate the help and feedback from you folks. I don't really know any serious hobbiests locally, so these sites are great resources.

[racoll]

Just my two cents, but I do not believe these unidirection manifold setups are at all necessary.

Most rheophilic fish such as loricariids are adapted to actually avoid current, as they live in the boundary layer where flow is reduced, as well as in gaps and crevices away from the current.

They simply do not need a complicated uniflow aquarium arrangement, in my opinion.

What they do need though, is high oxygen levels and sufficient water movement to provide this. Standard powerheads and pumps are ample, and if you buy the new reef style circulation pumps, these are attached to the outside of the tank, so contribute little heat. They are also very economical, shifting large amounts of water at low wattages. They also take up almost zero space in the tank.

Example is here: http://www.marinedepot.com/powerheads_p ... er-ap.html

In my mind, these are a much better proposition, and actually if installed near the surface, pumps will provide to some extent a unidirectional current, as water is deflected of the opposite end of the tank and along the substrate.

If on the other hand you really enjoy the DIY aspect and like modifying your own kit, then go for it.

[2wheelsx2]

I think the Koralias are efficient and much cheaper: http://www.marinedepot.com/Hydor_Korali ... FF-vi.html

1400 gph for < $50 and very low wattage. But yes, the propeller types are the way to go.

[MatsP]

I think it more likely because you live around 38 minutes of latitude (6,560 miles from the equator) and I live at 19 seconds latitude (36 miles from the equator).

Shane:
38 degrees and 19 minutes respectively, I think you'll find. A second is a 3600th of a degree, which means approximately 0.02 miles (or 30 meters, give or take - so you would be able to walk to the equator and back again in a less than an hour if you were 19 seconds off).

As to drilling tanks: It's not that difficult. You need a steady hand, a suitable drill-bit and a power-drill, and it's a good idea to practice on some "scrap" piece of glass.

Here's a more detailed description of how to drill a tank. Next time I do some drilling, I will take pictures to show how to do it.
http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... nk#p187498

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Mats