Properly controlled and reliable heating.

[Haavard Stoere]

Hi:)
Since I started with fish 25 years ago I have always used normal compact heaters. I have used a lot of old and new brands, and some have been less reliable than others. All in all I don`t like them any more. Most of them are hard to operate with wet hands. All of them without exception takes much tinkering to get the target temperature, and this is a great disadvantage when trying to raise or lower temperature for different reasons. I have decided to start using separate heaters and controllers for easier and safer operation.

The heater itself should be something like this http://www.aquaristikshop.com/cgi-bin/n ... fEoJ7eQcPA or preferably cheaper. It must of cource be metal and of high quality. Around 200 watts is best suited for each of my 6 sumps that process the water for all my tanks.

The controller must be reliable, accurate and preferably with a digital display. This one seems to be ok, but it is very expensive, and don`t have a temperature display. http://www.aquaristikshop.com/cgi-bin/n ... fEoJ7eQcPA

Any suggestions about what I should buy? I will need 6 heaters and 6 kontrollers. Price is an important consideration.

[MatsP]

I _KNOW_ you are not averse to a bit of DIY - so why not use something like this:
http://www.vernier.com/go/gotemp.html
[That's just the first I could find, I'm not saying that particular product is the best one for this application].

You'll obviously need a PC near the fishroom - but any old PC will do, it's not going to be a heavy application, and some kind of remote power-switch, like this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/A_USB_P ... Isolation/
[Again, the first one I could find - this one a DIY project, I'm sure similar ones are available as commercial products for expensive money].

With a little bit of software, you could control the temperature of each and every tank [sump], and even let the computer control up/down changes as you wish them to happen (e.g. drop 0.1 degree per hour for 6 hours at night, raise 0.2 degrees for 3 hours after "sunrise", etc).

I'd be happy to help with software, if you are not highly computer literate (subject to me having access to the relevant bits for testing purposes).

And until your current heaters fail, you could actually just keep using the glass ones - just set them to the max temperature, and switch them off/on externally.

--
Mats

[Shane]

Haavard,
Tough to advise as I am sure we have access to different equipment. Is there something like this on the European market?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/p ... atid=12060

The temp setting is not digital on the heater above, but these are reliable and cheap. I also love that they flip between F and C.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... atid=12089

-Shane

[husky_jim]

Hi Haavard.

I don't know if anyone else is using them, but at least between the greek-community is a 'must'.
I am referring to the Eliwell temperature controllers which are between of the most accurate and of course not that expensive.They are industrially used and they have a huge variety of functions.
In detail here we use the following two models:
-IC902 - http://www.eliwell.it/product.aspx?id=391

This offers one output and you can connect any heater you want even one less expensive.You can set upper and lowest temperature, you tanks desired temperature and the step of "sensitivity" that you want for operating the heater.e.g. If you set the desired temp to 28 and you set the 'step' to 0,2 then the heater will be turned on only when the temperature drops bellow 27,8!

-IC915 - http://www.eliwell.it/product.aspx?id=408

This model has the same features as the IC902 with the advantage on setting also upper temperature which can also control other devices.E.g. if your desired temperature is 28 and for any reason (e.g. summer) the temp has rise to the maximum e.g. 31 then you have a second output in order to activate chiller/fans etc.

The cost of IC902 id 42euros including the PVC probe!

We are using them many years and we never had a problem with them.

I will post later pics of a DIY box i have made controlling 3 tanks....

I can even bring in Hannover next month with me if anyone wants.

[husky_jim]

Here are the pics as promised....

The whole idea was to create a box for 3 of my tanks that are located on the same stand.The right side of the box is left for PH/TDS meters.

1.The tools used...

2.The controllers on the box...

3.Dremmel along with cables...

4.Drawing the holes...

5.Diamond Disc

6.Painting the box...

7.More wiring...

8.Connecting the controllers...

9.Placing the power inlets...3 for the controllers plus one with constant 220V for PH etc.

10."Finished product"



i hope you like/inspired for your tanks.....

[Haavard Stoere]

Thank you all for excellent and most expert advice

Jims solution with the Eliwell controllers and DIY controller panel/box is the most sexy solution I have ever seen, and I will definetely copy it. Excellent!

[Haavard Stoere]

Now I have received the controllers from Jim. They are beautiful Thank you

The description above should be published as an article here on PlanetCatfish.

[Richard B]

Now I have received the controllers from Jim. They are beautiful Thank you

The description above should be published as an article here on PlanetCatfish.

Indeed yes - a fantastic system/set-up

[ayrtoninst]

I have something similar to control my heating.

I use West 6100+ 1/16 DIN controllers with PT100 probes and Hydor Theo heaters.

I have the relay outputs connected to a 240v SSR which provides an isolated supply to the heaters themselves.

I was lucky enough to gain possession of 20 odd of these controllers in the course of my work when I decommissioned them from regular use.

The advantage I find with these is a dual line display which shows the setpoint temperature and the actual temperature. Also, changing the setpoint is so easy - press the menu button then scroll up or down and press menu again to confirm. My probes are accurate to 0.05 degrees celcius.

If anyone in the UK wants one built, please PM me for costs