Questions about taking care of corydoras eggs!!!

[aspidoras paudiacutatus]

Hello! Everyone
I am rather new member of this planetcatfish, and I am also interested in Callichthyidae ( Aspidoras, Brochis, and Corydoras ) very much, but I am just a beginner of breeding all of these species. I am breeding Corydoras Duplicareus F0 and Corydoras Sterbai F0 now, and I got 5 times of Corydoras Duplicareus eggs and 2 times of Corydoras Sterbai eggs, but I haven't gotten any fries. I am so disappointed because Corydoras eggs always got fungus all the time. I have tried to read all information, and follow all the rules about taking care of Corydoras eggs, but they've still gotten fungus on them. I gentlely tried picking up eggs with my hand, used fish net, which hung from the side of spawning tank, using razor blade from the glass, and finally using Methylene Blue for treatment of fungus eggs and bacterial infections, but all the rules still haven't worked out with all my Corydoras eggs, or I did the wrong treatments. My final treatment by putting Methylene Blue medicine I take all the Corydoras eggs from the breeding tank, and I put The Methylene Blue medicine in the Corydoras eggs' tank, but eggs still got some fungus. I am so disappointed and so discouraged very much. Is anyone help me to figure out what happen to my treatments of hatching Corydoras eggs. I love Corydoras very much and I am trying to breed them, but it hasn't worked out. Please! help me. It will be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

Bunthid or Max

[Freshman]

Hi,

Sorry I can't really help much with your corydoras breeding problem as I'm also a new to it. My two successful breeding attempts with corydoras aeneus are with the help of an air pump.

The corydoras eggs are collected and placed in a container situated directly under the canister output - area where the water flow is rather fast. Then I positioned an airstone underneath the eggs.

No Methylene Blue or other anti fungus medication was added in that two attempts.

Some eggs nevertheless still get infected by fungus thus the hatch rate isn't really that good BUT it is definitely better than when I didn't have the additional airstone.

That's all I know for now and hope it helps.
Good luck!

[apistomaster]

Your C. sterbai may just still be young breeders and haven't become fully fertile. I find my older sterbai are better producers. Still, they are not the easiest Corydoras to breed. Many eggs die and many more fry, especially during to first two weeks. I did manage to raise and sell ~1000 of them last season.

C. duplicareous are much harder to raise. I haven't perfected my own technique but I am trying peat filtered RO water. Mine spawned just before it got too hot and in my tap water which is 340 ppm TDS and pH 7.6. Now that it is cooling down I am trying the above method but it is too soon because the were just set up. The TDS is 60 ppm and pH 6.0. I had similar problems with C-121 but I lost my breeders by breaking the cardinal rule; quarantine new fish well before adding them to your collection. That mistake cost me ten beautiful Corydoras C-121. Six sick Garnet Tetras costing $12 fatally infected $175 in Corys.

[Gogool]

Hi,
Finally, last year, I managed to get my sterbais to spawn(9 F0 and 5 gb). (Thank you, ‘apistomaster’ for this reply http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... 05c8cf5a94). They are now spawning in a regular basis and last year I was able to successfully raise 1500 of them.

Here is my process:
- Fill a plastic container (750ml) with 500ml with same water where the eggs are.
- Carefully remove the eggs from the glass and put them in the container.
- Put one drop of Methylene Blue in the container.
- Put in an air stone.
- Prepare a 50ltr tank with 2 sponge filters. In my case 75% RO and 25% tap water gives me a pH6.2, dH1. I set the temp to 27º.
- Put the container with eggs floating over this new prepared tank.
- Every day change 10ltr of this new tank water with water with same parameters as described.
- Every day change 125ml of the container water with the new tank water.
- By the time the fry hatch there should not be any blue in the container.
- After the fry hatch continue to change both waters for 3 more days.
- After the 3 days carefully remove the fry from the container and free them in the new tank. (don’t put the water column too high)
- Feed microworms first week.
- Feed newly hatched brine shrimp and microworms for one month.
- Feed smashed powder shrimp pellets.
- Every day change 10ltrs of water and siphon the bottom. (This is the key)

Voilá. Hope this helps.
Gul

[Coryman]

Without wanting to seem like a school teacher, have you read the stickies at the head of the forum, there is a lot of info there on fry.

Ian

[caverman]

Hi,
I breed sterbai succesfully for the last 8 months.

Here is my hatching process:

-Take the eggs from the parents tank. (ASAP)
-Place the eggs in a very small container with about 250ml of water. (I usually cut o small plastic bottle in two pieces)
-Use RO water only (I use a 3 stage RO).
-Use the air stone in a way that the bubbles cover almost all the surface.
-Leave them there for seven days - no water change's - no feeding - no methylen blue -temp 27C.

with the above steps I have more than 95% hatch if eggs are fertile and no fungus.

Good luck,

Caverman

[aspidoras paudiacutatus]

Thank you very much everyone. I am really appreciated that.