floating water sprite and some small air bubblers and daily partial water changes. When I increased the depth I added a small foam filter

Years ago - I had similar issues with them and found that keeping the fry in water no more than 4 inches (10 cm) of depth till they were 6+ weeks old solved that problem for me.

If you change your mind on duplicareus- I have a few dozen fry from this spring that are about half grown. And we're not too far from each other.

They are open on both ends.

Steve

I only used tubes open on both ends and it worked quite well with Centromoclus perugiae. I detailed the results with pics including the female staying in the tube on the egss/fry for a few days at least.

http://cinci-fishfarmer.com/reports/Tat ... iaeBR.html

Steve

A hacksaw that you could buy at the hardware store cuts thru PVC pipe fairly easily.

There is a general rule that the length of the cave should be one and a half times the length of the male and the width and heights are also about one and a half times the body width and height of the adult male. The males want to be able to extend their pectoral and dorsal fins to lock themselves ...

The only problem I ever had hatching them was making the mistake of putting the eggs in a medium sized plastic box hanging in the aquarium with an air bubbler in it. They were ok for a while but when they started hatching the water quality totally fouled. There must have been a lot of waste products ...

I had the pipes on the bottom. Part of what allows the fry to survive in the parents tank is that the adults tend to stay at the bottom of the tank, except when feeding, and the fry live at the surface of the water. When feeding the parents are in a frenzy anywhere they see food.

Steve

I used a 10 gallon tank, with lots of floating plants and PVC tubing of a couple of sizes around an inch in diameter and 4-6 inches in length. The adults tend to hide out in the PVC tubes, the females will hide out in the tubes with the eggs/wigglers/fry and the free swimming fry will typically hide ...

I'll be "going", but for me it's only a 5 mile drive. People both local and not are starting to list things on our clubs web site that will be for sale at the event. Look on the for sale forum of our web site http://www.gcas.org I have a good supply of Orange laser cory fry ready to go, but my plecs ...

mixed flakes and earthworm pellets on alternate days and forzen brine 2x a week. The earthworm flakes also seem to bring out the orange color very well on the fry.

Varying from 72-74 lately, they are in a basement fishroom that is cooler in the winter. No day night variance. Water changes may take it below 70F temporaraily. From what I've seen in growing out the fry they likely low to mid 70's as well. I tried raising some fry in with some angel fish fry and ...

What temperature do you have them at? I have a group spawning quite often in the low 70F range. Last summer they would spawn maybe monthly when it was closer to 80F. They are typically triggered by a water change.

Steve

I had some a few years back, these fish were not as shy as perugiae and when there is food in the tank they're right out after it. They were eating anything put in the tank, flake food, brine shrimp, blood worms. They bred a few times for me with two different styles. The first time and one later ...

According to the details on these fish here on PC, their temperature range is from the 60's up to 72F, so they should like a cold water change and we seem to be lucky that they are ok with the mid yo upper 70's.

Steve

I traded drgold for a breeding group of Batasio havmolleri a month ago and have now found fry that survived from a breeding about 2.5 weeks ago. http://www.cinci-fishfarmer.com/pictures/Batasio-havmolleri-fry-0756.jpg Very pretty fry with a pattern that must be lost as they grow. I put a breeding ...

Are you keeping the spawning bowls and 10 gallon tanks at 85? Mine wouldn't breed at temperatures less than 82 and seem much happier at 84-85, so I would assume the fry also like it warmer.

Steve

The symptom of new fish dieing after 5-7 days while the original fish are fine also fits with the fact that the original fish have become accustomed to the pure RO water while new fish just can't make that sudden transition to pure water, but it takes a few days before they die.

Steve

Fishrooms that I visit and have open top tanks tend to be very humid. The owners usually talk of having a fair amount of evaporation.

When I expand the picture of the three fish, I noticed that the male is black and white while the females are black and yellow. I was wondering if that is usual?

I've had L66 which resemble your male and L333 which resemble your females.

I have left several batches of fry in with the parents, actually 2 pairs and have not noticed any delcine in numbers of 2 inch fry over what I saw as new fry.
The tank is fed blood worms and pellets.

Some pics on my web page
http://cinci-fishfarmer.com/reports/L010BR.html

Steve

I also went thru various struggles with breeding and rearing Adolfi fry a few years back that I recorded in a breeding report on my web page. http://cinci-fishfarmer.com/reports/corydorasadolfiBR.html Water hardness seemed to be key for the eggs to hatch and water depth for success in rearing the ...

I don't disagree with the thought that it's easier on the fish to make a gradual transition. On the other hand I have seen sailfin mollies moved back and forth from fresh to salt water with just a couple of minutes adjustment time and they have done fine. But I do have another question about a slow ...

Ted, congratulations on the spawn. I have worked with these guys and other loricaridaes in the last couple of years and have some experience that I hope will help. On my web page I documented an article on breeding royal farlowellas and later another article on a fry raising tank that allows you to ...

Some species will grow out in a main tank and some need to be put somewhere where they can be fed heavily as they do not want to move to find food. The trick then is to keep the water from fouling. I documented one way of building a device to slowly flow water into a holding tank for the fry that is ...

With fancy guppies, it is also possible that they were already a little stressed in the new tank and then the water change pushed them over the edge into some disease. Fancy guppies are fairly fragile and will often get sick with symptoms as yours have. Treatment for velvet usually works. They act ...

Since my Aspidoras sp Black Phantom C-35 have taken to swimming up into the outflow of the hang on the back filters to lay their eggs, it doesn't surprise me when I find fry in the filters. And my Synodontis Petricola lay some of their eggs in the yarn mops that are in the tank for the rainbows to ...

The acidity comment is a key factor. A few years ago, one of our local water districts started softening their water and also dropped the pH and suddenly there was a rash of pipe failures from pitting from the inside.

Don't feed the fish for 36-48 hours before bagging them, and they should be good in the bags for a couple of days.(as far as not polluting their own water). Try to keep the styrofoams dark. When you get the tank set up again, let the water and gravel and filters run for awhile (at least hours ...